Hanging Shag

Designer: Kristin Cleveland

Woven tapestries are all the rage. Design your own for beautiful wall art!


  • Frame loom
  • Strong thread or yarn for warp
  • Strips of scrap fabric that are longer than width of warp
  • Wide-tooth comb
  • Yarn for weaving
  • Shuttle
  • Yarn to use for base of weaving: ivory
  • Textured yarn in white or ivory (such as mohair)
  • 6″-wide piece of cardboard
  • Sewing thread: white or ecru
  • Tapestry needle
  • 38“-diameter dowel rod
  • Fringe twister


1. Determine the length and width of desired finished wall hanging and add 20% to allow for shrinkage from weaving under tension. This project was warped for 12″ wide.

2. Follow the “How to Set Up Your Loom” instructions, below. If you want a fringe at the bottom of your wall hanging, leave 4–6″ of open warp before weaving to allow for the added fringe.

1. To determine if warp thread/yarn is strong enough for weaving, firmly pull on opposite ends. If it breaks, chose another thread or yarn.
2. Tie one end of the warp on a nail on either the top or bottom rail of the loom; tie in a double knot.
3. Wrap warp around nail on opposite side of the frame. Keep thread tight and tension even as you work back and forth across the loom until you have reached the desired width.
4. Tie the thread end in a knot after going around the last nail.
5. Weave in three or four picks of a scrap piece of yarn to help space the warp and provide a solid base from which to begin weaving. This will be taken out later along with the scrap fabric. Pack in place with comb.
6. Select base yarn for weft, and wind onto shuttle. Weave four or five weft rows in plain weave to establish the base of your wall hanging.

1. Wrap yarn around a 6″-wide piece of cardboard. Cut through yarn along each side of the cardboard to create a bundle of 6″-long pieces that will be used for rya knots.
2. To add a rya knot, select two pieces of yarn from the yarn bundle. (Note: The yarns do not need to be the same.) Place the center of the yarn pieces over the two warp threads where you want the knot to be. Wrap the yarn ends over the outside of the two warp threads and up through the middle space between the two warp threads.
3. Pull the ends toward you to tighten and slide the knot down to rest against the previously woven weft. Repeat to add desired number of knots to the row.
4. Continue weaving tapestry with base yarn in plain weave, weaving the rows at an angle to the warp and packing the weft in place with a wide-tooth comb as you go. Weave four picks between each row of knots to securely pack the knots in place. To add a bit of texture to the tapestry, cut a short length of mohair yarn and weave it at an angle to the weft; pack it with the comb against the weft.


5. Follow Step 2 to add knots as desired throughout the weaving. If knots are in middle of row, carry the base yarn across the back of the knots and resume weaving on the other side of the knots. Continue weaving until tapestry is desired length, making sure to add 1″ to the top selvage for a rod pocket.
6. Remove fabric scraps and scrap yarn from warp. Cut warp threads from top of loom, as close to the nails as possible. Tie top warp threads together in pairs as close to the weaving as possible to secure the weft. Cut thread tails. Repeat at bottom of the warp.

7. Fold top selvage under 1″; hand-sew long edge in place with a whipstitch to make a rod pocket. Thread dowel through rod pocket.


1. Cut four white or ivory yarns to 30″ long. Knot them together on one end, and secure this end to a tabletop with a piece of tape.

2. Using the fringe twister, divide the yarns into two groups of two and insert the ends of each group in a clasp. Twist the handle on the fringe twister clockwise, keeping the yarn tension taut until the yarns begin to twist tightly upon themselves. Holding the ends securely, release the ends from the clasps and allow the yarns to twist back counterclockwise upon themselves in the opposite direction; knot the ends.

3. Tie one end of the twisted length to one end of the dowel, leaving a tail. Tie the other end of twisted yarns to the opposite end of the dowel; trim if desired.


Woven CD Table Mat

Designer: Kristin Cleveland

Convert a stash of old CD or DVD discs into a table mat by weaving vibrant yarn onto the circular surfaces; then join the discs to form an interesting shape, such as the diamond shown.


  • Tapestry needle
  • Yarn in desired colors
  • CDs or DVDs
  • Size 3 perle cotton in desired color


Finished size: 17×29″

Note: The back of the disc is the printed side with label. The front is the unmarked side.

1. Thread a tapestry needle with a generous arm’s length of yarn. Hold yarn end against back (printed side) of the disc. Pass the needle through the hole in the center and tightly and evenly wrap the yarn around the disc until you have 13 warp yarns (or any odd number). Tie the ends together in a knot on the back, and trim the excess.

2. Select a yarn for weaving and cut an arm’s length. Tie yarn end to one of the warp yarns on the back of the disc. Thread yarn end onto tapestry needle, and pass the needle through the center hole of the disc so it is on the front.

3. Weave the needle under and over the warp yarns while working counterclockwise around the disc to create the weft. Pull the yarn tight as you work and keep the weaving neat. Note: As you weave new rows, the weft pattern will continue to alternate because of the odd number of warp yarns.

4. When you near the end of the yarn, insert the needle in the space between warp yarns and under the weft yarns; pull the yarn through to the center hole of the disc, hiding the yarn under the weft yarns. Pass the needle through the center to the back, and knot the yarn end to one of the warp threads on the back. Do not pull the yarn too tight.

5. To start a new yarn length, reverse Step 4 by coming up through the weft about two to three warp threads back from where you left off. Continue weaving, overlapping the joint.

6. Repeat steps 1–5 to weave all discs. You will need 16 to make a diamond-shape table mat. Refer to the main photo to lay out four diagonal rows of four discs each to create a diamond shape. To join the discs, knot two warp threads together between discs using perle cotton as shown.

Crocheted Lemon Cozy

Designer: Amanda Hyun 

Crochet a sunny yellow cozy, complete with a lemon slice, to turn a Mason jar into your go-to drinking glass.


  • Medium worsted weight yarn: bright yellow, white, soft yellow
  • Size I (5.5 mm) crochet hook
  • Tapestry needle


Magic Ring: Wrap the yarn around your finger twice. Insert hook under loops. Pull up a loop and sl st to secure.


Start with bright yellow, make magic ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 1 (counts as first hdc and beg ch), 6 hdc in the ring, join with sl st to top of first hdc (7 hdc). Pull the yarn tail to close the center of ring.

Rnd 2: Ch 2, hdc in same st, 2 hdc in each st around, join (14 hdc).

Rnd 3: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next st, *hdc inc, hdc, rep from * around, join (21 hdc).

Rnd 4: Ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next 2 sts, *hdc inc, hdc in next 2 sts, rep from * around, join (28 hdc).


Rnd 5: Ch 2, hdc in back loops around, join, fasten off (28 hdc). Attach white.

Rnd 6: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join, fasten off (28 hdc). Attach soft yellow.

Rnds 7–12: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join (28 hdc).

Rnd 13: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join, fasten off (28 hdc). Attach white.

Rnd 14: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join, fasten off (28 hdc).

Rnd 15: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join, fasten off (28 hdc). Sew in all ends.


Start with soft yellow, make magic ring.

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as first sc and beg ch), 5 sc in the ring, turn (6 sc). Pull the yarn tail to close the center of the ring.

Rnd 2: Ch 1,2 sc in each st around, turn (12 sc).

Rnd 3: Ch 1, *2 sc in first st, sc in next st, rep from * to end, turn (18 sc).

Rnd 4: Ch 1, *2 sc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, rep from * to end. Fasten off, leaving an 18″ tail. Turn (24 sc). Attach white.

Rnd 5: Ch 1, *2 sc in first st, sc in next 3 sts, rep from * to end. Fasten off, leaving an 18″ tail for creating white wedge lines. Turn (30 sc). Attach bright yellow.

Rnd 6: Ch 1, *2 sc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, rep from * to end. Fasten off and weave in short end only (36 sc).


1. Thread long white yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and stitch long straight stitches for wedge lines. Refer to the Lemon Slice Stitch Diagram, below, for placement and direction of stitches.


2. Fit lemon slice around top of cozy. Thread long soft yellow yarn tail onto tapestry needle. Stitch slice to cozy where slice and cozy touch. Weave in ends.

Crocheted Pillowcases

Designer: Kari Stecher

Take your crochet skills over the edge with colorful bands.


  • Pillowcase
  • Water-soluble marking pen
  • Large-eye embroidery needle
  • Sport weight/DK cotton yarn in desired color
  • Size E/4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook
  • Fabric marker

Note: Gauge is not crucial to the success of this project.

1. Turn pillowcase inside out. Beginning 14” from pillowcase edge, use a water-soluble marking pen to mark dots every 12” along the inside of pillowcase band.

2. Foundation Rnd: Measure a length of yarn that is 15 times the width of the pillowcase opening. Fold the yarn in half and knot the ends.

3. Working from inside pillowcase band, blanket-stitch the edge. To blanket stitch, refer to photos and diagram, below.

4. Push needle through a marked dot to outside of pillowcase. Form a reverse L shape with the yarn, and hold angle of L shape in place with your thumb. Push the needle down into next dot to the right. Come up under the reverse L shape, and, crossing over the trailing thread to secure the stitch, again form a reverse L shape with the yarn. Push the needle down at the next marked dot to the right and come up under the reverse L shape. Continue around pillowcase band.

5. To join end of blanket stitches to beginning, bring needle through front of first stitch knot. Tie off.
6. Turn pillowcase right side out. Make a slip knot on crochet hook and insert hook under blanket stitch. Note: The first stitch can begin anywhere.


Rnd 1: 3 sc in each st, join to first sc with sl st.

Rnd 2: Ch 4, dc in same st, * sk next 2 sc, (dc, ch 1, dc) in next st. Rep from * to end. Sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch 4.
Rnd 3: * (sc, ch 3, sc) in next ch 1 sp, sk next 2 dc. Rep from * to end. Sl st to 1st sc. Fasten off.



Rnd 2: Ch 5, sk next 2 sc; * dc in next sc, ch 2, sk next 2 sc. Rep from * to end. Sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch 5.
Rnd 3: Ch 1, * 3 sc in next ch 2 sp, ch 1, sk next dc. Rep from * to end. Sl st to beg ch 1. Fasten off.



Rnd 2: *Ch 1, sk 2 sc, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next sc, ch 1, sk 2 sc, sl st in next sc. Rep from * to end. Sl st to 1st sc. Fasten off.

How to Make a Pom-Pom with a Clover Pom-Pom Maker

Looking for a unique embellishment on a gift or a decoration for a party? Make pom-poms in assorted colors with the Clover Pom-Pom Maker to add a fun twist to your DIY.

Instructions from the Clover website.

Buy the Clover pom-pom maker here.



1. Wind your selected fiber on each “half moon” shaped arm of the pom-pom maker.  Use more yarn for a fuller pom-pom.
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2. With the arms closed, insert a sharp set of scissors into the groove and cut the fiber loops.  When done you should be able to see the center all the way around the pom-
pom maker.

3. Insert a length of fiber, cord, yarn around the groove, pull tight and tie in place.  This piece holds the pom-pom pieces together so make sure it is tight enough to hold those fibers in place and the double knot is tight enough to prevent it from ever loosening.

4. Pull the tool in half setting your pom-pom free.  Now just fluff and shape it by hand and trim to suit your purposes.