Embroidered Waste Basket

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Designer: Jaydee Decker

Perforated metal waste cans are available in a variety of styles, and this faux-caned version works great for cross-stitching because of the vertical and horizontal hole alignment.


Materials:

  • Perforated metal waste can (must have vertically and horizontally aligned holes; our can is 20 holes high)
  • Spray paint: gold
  • Yarn needle
  • Super-bulky yarn: white

Assemble the Waste Basket:

1. In a well-ventilated area, spray-paint metal waste can; let dry.

2. Find the vertical center on side of can. Following the chart, below, cross-stitch design from the center out using yarn needle and white yarn. Leave a long tail on inside of can for first and last stitches, weave tails under previous stitches; trim ends. End yarn between motifs so yarn is not visible in open areas of can.

basket-pattern

 

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Embroidered Pegboard

102167893Designer: Sherri K. Falls

Get personal with stitched names, monograms, or other inspirational words on your own pegboard.


Materials:

  • 2×3′ piece of white hardboard pegboard
  • DK weight cotton yarn: blue, coral, gold
  • Yarn needle
  • 5—34– to 1″-diameter gold buttons
  • S-hooks

Assemble the Pegboard:

1. Using a pencil and referring to the Stitch Placement Diagram, below, print the word ”Create” on the lower left-hand corner of the pegboard by connecting the dots.

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2. Use a doubled length of yarn threaded onto a yarn needle for all stitching. Knot yarn on back of pegboard to secure stitches. Backstitch the letters C and A with blue yarn.

3. Backstitch the letters R and T with coral yarn and both letter Es with gold yarn.

4. Stitch a button to each end of the letter C with blue yarn. Stitch three buttons for ellipses at the end of the word with gold yarn.

5. Hang crafts supplies on board using S-hooks.

 

Crocheted Owl Basket

owl-tote

Designer: Deja Jetmir 

Whooooo’s ready to get organized while looking stylish?


Materials:

  • Two 5-ounce skeins worsted weight yarn: gray (such as Red Heart Super Saver in Grey Heather)
  • Size J crochet hook
  • Blunt-end yarn needle

Gauge: 6 rows and 8 hdc = 3″

Finished size: 8″ tall

See our guide to yarn here.

 

Abbreviations:

hdc-inc, dc-inc, sc-inc = work two of the designated st in one stitch.
hdc-dec = (Yo, insert hook in next st, yo and draw up a lp) twice, yo and draw through all 5 lps on hook.
picot = ch 5, sl st in top of first st.


Crochet the Basket:

Note: The basket is worked in a spiral, so joining rounds is not necessary. Mark beginning of each round.

Rnd 1: With 2 strands of yarn held together, ch 3 (2 chs counts as hdc), hdc 7 times in beg ch (8 hdc).

Rnd 2: Hdc-inc in each st (16 hdc).

Rnd 3: *Hdc-inc, hdc in next st; rep from * 7 more times (24 hdc).

Rnd 4: *Hdc-inc, hdc in next 2 sts; rep from * 7 more times (32 hdc).

Rnd 5: *Hdc-inc, hdc in next 3 sts; rep from * 7 more times (40 hdc).

Rnd 6: *Hdc-inc, hdc in next 4 sts; rep from * 7 more times (48 hdc).

Rnd 7: * Hdc-inc, hdc in next 5 sts; rep from * 7 more times (56 hdc).

Rnd 8:
* Hdc-inc, hdc in next 6 sts; rep from * 7 more times (64 hdc).

Rnds 9–17: Hdc in each st around (64 hdc).

Rnd 18: *Hdc-dec, hdc in next 6 sts; rep from * 7 more times (56 hdc).

Rnd 19: *Hdc-dec, hdc in next 5 sts; rep from * 7 more times (48 hdc).

Rnd 20: *Hdc-inc, hdc in next 5 sts; rep from * 7 more times (56 hdc).

Rnd 21–26: Hdc in each st around (56 hdc).

Sc in next st, sl st in next st to finish off. Fasten off, and weave in ends.


Make the Eyes:

Note: Each eye is worked in a spiral, so joining rounds is not necessary. Mark beginning of each round.

 

First Eye:

Rnd 1: With 2 strands of yarn held together, ch 2, sc 6 times in beg ch (6 sc).

Rnd 2: *Sc 2 times in each st; rep from * 5 more times (12 sc).

Rnd 3: *Dc 2 times in each st; rep from * 11 more times (24 sc).

Rnd 4: *Dc 2 times in next st, dc; rep from * 5 more times, tr, dtr, picot; fasten off.

 

Second Eye:

Rnds 1–3: Rep First Eye instructions.

Rnd 4: Picot, dtr, tr, *dc, dc 2 times in next st; rep from * 5 more times, hdc, sc, sl st to finish off eye; fasten off and weave in ends.


Add Eyes to Basket:

1. Position the right eye on the basket at the point of the last st. Using two strands of yarn and a tapestry needle, tack down the center of the eye; using the center hole as a guide, bring the needle up through the center and then back down in the first round of stitches. Continue until center is secure.

2. Using two strands of yarn and the outside stitches of the eye, tack down the eye securely, leaving the picot stitches unsewn. Weave in all ends. Repeat with left eye.


Add the Beak:

1. Using two strands of yarn and long straight stitches, embroider a beak between the bottoms of the eyes.

Crocheted Stress Reliever

stress-relieverDesigner: Kari Stecher

Filled with a lavender sachet, this flexible crocheted neck roll is perfect for soothing sore muscles.

Size: 412×1012


Materials:

  • Two 4×1112” pieces of muslin
  • Filler
  • Worsted weight yarn: ivory
  • Size I crochet hook
  • Tapestry needle
  • Two 34“-diameter buttons: ivory

Sew the Sachet

1. With right sides facing, sew the 4×1112” pieces of muslin together, leaving one of the short sides open.

2. Fill the sachet with your choice of filler through the opening. Hand-stitch the opening closed.


Crochet the Cover

Note: Gauge is not critical to the success of project.

See our guide to yarn here.

 

Ch 32.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook; *sk next ch, ch 1, sc in next ch; rep from * across; ch 1, turn (16 sc, 15 ch).

Row 2: Sk first st, *sc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, sk next st; rep from * across. End with a sc in turning ch from previous row; ch 1, turn (16 sc, 15 ch).

Rep Row 2 until piece measures approximately 1012” square. Fasten off and weave in ends.


Assemble the Neck Roll

1. Fold up the bottom third of the crocheted cover, and use a tapestry needle and yarn to sew short side seams on two layers, leaving the top third loose as a pocket flap.

2. Sew two buttons to front of pocket, spacing each approximately 212” from side edges. Insert pillow into pocket, and fold the top third of cover down. Fasten buttons in the openings between stitches on the flap. 

Cross-Stitch Magazine Holder

crosstheborderDesigner: Jaydee Decker

A cross-stitch canvas sling sewn to fit a copper-pipe frame makes a handy spot for organizing magazines, newspapers, record albums, or essential paperwork.


Materials:

  • ½”×10′ copper pipe
  • Tubing cutter
  • 8—12” 90° copper elbows
  • Spray paint: metallic gold
  • 3612×1714” piece of canvas: natural
  • Sewing thread: natural
  • Cutting mat
  • Crafts knife
  • Tapestry needle
  • Worsted-weight yarn: orange

1. Cut copper pipe to the following lengths:

  • 4—14″ long pieces
  • 2—17″ long pieces
  • 2—9″ long pieces

 

2. Spray-paint each copper pipe piece and each 90° elbow with metallic gold spray paint. Let dry.

3. Fold under one long edge of canvas 14“, then 14” again; press. Sew just inside folded edge with natural sewing thread. Repeat on opposite long edge.

4. Fold under one short edge of canvas 14“, then 14” again; press. Fold under an additional 2″ and press. Sew just inside folded edge to make a sleeve to accommodate the pipe. Repeat on opposite short edge.

5. Lay canvas facedown on work surface. Fold in half so sleeve edges meet and crease the fold; unfold. Using pencil and ruler, measure and draw a 13×7″ rectangle on center of one half of fabric. Make small marks every 1″ along the drawn lines. Connect 1″ marks to make a 1″ grid consisting of 91 squares (13×7). Referring to the chart, below, mark an X in each corresponding square on fabric.

diagram1

 

6. Place grid portion of canvas with grid facing up on cutting mat. Find center square on grid. Using the tip of a crafts knife, poke a small hole in fabric on all four corners of each drawn X.

7. Holding canvas with grid side up and following the chart, above, cross-stitch design from back side using tapestry needle and orange yarn. To do this, push needle down into fabric (from grid/back side to front) for first half of cross-stitch and bring it back up from front to back for second half of cross-stitch. Check stitches on front as you stitch. Knot tail on grid side for first stitch, weave tail from last stitch under previous stitches; trim ends.

8. With front side facedown, insert a 17″ copper pipe length into each canvas sleeve. Attach a 90° elbow to each end.

9. Pick up canvas so front side faces out and, referring to photo, above, insert a 14″ copper pipe length to each open elbow end to make four side supports for the frame. Attach a 90° elbow to each end.

10. Insert a 9″ copper pipe length into two side elbows to make a side bottom support. Repeat on opposite side.