Coiled Planter Pot Container

Designer: Sheila Sinclair Snyder 

Cover up a boring pot with a coiled container that coordinates with your decor.


  • Approximately 50′ of 316“-wide cotton cord
  • 18 yard of green print fabric
  • Sewing thread: clear
  • Clear-drying crafts glue

Finished size: 412” tall

1. Cut green print fabric into 1″-wide strips.

2. Referring to How-To Sew a Cord Coil below, and using white sewing thread, sew between the cord rounds to make a 4″-diameter coil for the pot cover base.

2. To begin pot cover sides, lay the clothesline over the top of the outermost row of pot cover base coil. Shift base under the sewing machine foot so the coil is flipped up vertically on the left side of foot. Continue sewing between the rounds until the planter sides are 3″ tall.

3. Wrap a green print strip clockwise around the clothesline, and continue sewing the coil for two rounds, adding more green strips as necessary.

4. Continue sewing uncovered cord for the coil for approximately 5 more rounds or until the pot cover sides are 412” tall. Trim cord end, leaving 3″ unsewn. Cover cut end with clear-drying crafts glue to prevent fraying; let dry. Sew remainder of cord to top of pot cover, backstitching at the end for extra reinforcement.

How to Sew a Cord Coil:

1. For a round base, coil one end of the cord tightly around itself a few times until the coil is the size of a quarter.



2. While holding coil firmly, place the coil under your sewing machine’s zigzag foot with the cord extending off the right side toward you. Use a wide zigzag to stitch between the cording rows, catching the cording on both sides to hold it together.

3. Slowly rotate the coils counterclockwise as you zigzag-stitch in between the rows. For long continuous curves, you may wish to switch to an open toe sewing machine foot. Tilt coil as you stitch to build sides.


Macaroon Storage Pouch

Adapted from an original design by Keiko Clark

Here’s a recipe for macaroon look-alikes that doesn’t require you to be a skilled pastry chef.


  • 6×12″ rectangle solid pastel No. 1 (zipper tab, pocket)
  • 2—6×12″ rectangles solid pastel No. 2 (outer case, lining)
  • Heavy-duty template plastic
  • Heavy paper
  • Needle and thread
  • 9″-long zipper: white
  • Heavy-duty thread
  • Download the pattern pieces here.


Finished size: 3″ diameter

Measurements include 14” seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.

Cut Fabrics:

Cut pieces in the following order. Download the pattern pieces here.


From solid pastel No. 1, cut: 

  • 2 of Pattern C
  • 112” square

From solid pastel No. 2, cut:

  • 4 of Pattern A

From each template plastic and heavy paper, cut:

  • 2 of Pattern B

Prepare Zipper Unit:

1. Using needle and thread, secure zipper tape ends 14” below teeth at zipper bottom with overlapping backstitches. Repeat stitching at opposite zipper end 14” from zipper stop.

2. To create the join between the case front and back, fold opposite edges of solid pastel No. 1 12” square under 38” to make a 34×112” folded unit. Open zipper slightly. Center folded unit on wrong side of zipper over joined zipper ends. Stitch folded edges of unit to zipper tape. Close zipper.


3. Turn zipper so zipper pull tab is on the outside. Snip 14” clips every 12” around the zipper tape on both sides.

Assemble Outer Case:

1. Sew gathering stitches close to outer edge of a solid pastel No. 2 A circle. Place circle right side down on a flat surface. Place a small handful of polyester fiberfill on wrong side of pastel circle. Layer plastic B circle on polyester fiberfill. Pull gathering thread around plastic circle (enclosing fiberfill) and secure thread ends to make a cover unit.

2. Position cover unit atop one side of zipper unit. Working from right side, whipstitch cover unit to zipper tape.

3. Using a solid pastel No. 2 A circle, repeat Step 1 to assemble a second cover unit. Position cover unit atop remaining side of zipper unit. Whipstitch cover unit to zipper tape as before to make outer case.

Assemble Lining:

1. Turn under straight edge of solid pastel No. 1 C piece 12” twice. Topstitch along first fold to make pocket piece. Repeat to make a second pocket piece.

2. Center pocket piece, right side up, atop right side of a solid pastel No. 2 A circle; baste edges.

3. Center a paper B circle on wrong side of solid pastel No. 2 A circle. Sew gathering stitches close to outer edge of A circle. Place circle right side down on a flat surface. Pull gathering thread around paper circle and secure thread ends to make lining with pocket.

4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 with remaining pocket piece, paper B circle, and solid pastel No. 2 A circle.

Finish Case:

Open outer case. Center one lining piece on inside of case. Whipstitch lining to zipper tape. Repeat with remaining lining piece on other inside of case to complete case.



Fabric Storage Baskets

fresh-pickedDesigner: Anna Graham

Inspired by berry baskets from the farmer’s market, these cheery fabric renditions are great for stashing notions in a crafts room, corralling change, or holding jewelry.


  • 2—12″ pieces of two coordinating fabrics (small basket)
  • 2—18″ squares of two coordinating fabrics (large basket)
  • 14 yard of double-sided fusible heavyweight interface (such as 72F Peltex II)
  • 1 yard of ½” double-fold binding tape
  • Clothespins
  • Basket pattern (get the pattern here)

Finished baskets: 414×414×112” (small); 5×5×312” for (large)

Measurements include 14” seam allowances unless otherwise stated. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.

Assemble the Baskets:

Cut out basket patterns. For a small basket, fold fabric in half. For large basket, fold fabric in quarters. Cut the following pieces:



From print No.1, cut: 

  • 1 of pattern A (exterior)

From print No. 2, cut:

  • 1 of pattern A (interior)

From double-sided fusible heavyweight interfacing, cut:

  • 1—334” square (bottom)
  • 4—334×114” rectangles (sides)



From print No. 3, cut:

  • 1 of pattern B (exterior)

From print No. 4, cut:

  • 1 of pattern B (interior)

From double-sided fusible heavyweight interfacing, cut:

  • 1—434” square (bottom)
  • 4—434×314” rectangles (sides) 

1. Place matching exterior and lining pieces with right sides together, sew pieces together at each corner as shown by lines on diagram (Diagram 1).


2. Place corresponding interfacing square on center of exterior side of shape; press (Diagram 2). Clip into corners slightly and turn right side out.


3. Slip one corresponding interfacing rectangle into top, bottom, and each side of shape (Diagram 3). Adjust shapes so there is enough space around interfacing edges to allow for topstitching. Press shape on both sides.

4. Topstitch around center and side interfacing pieces (Diagram 4). Place shape with exterior side down.

5. Open double-fold binding tape. Fold one side of box up. Turn end of bias tape under 12” and place end of tape in center of box side, aligning tape and box side edges; pin (Diagram 5).



6. Working around box and leaving a 12” gap of unpinned bias tape at each corner, pin bias tape in same manner to all sides. Overlap ends of tape by at least 1″. Sew 12” below top edge of each side panel and corner (Diagram 6).
fresh-picked-d67. Flip binding tape up and over the top of the basket to conceal raw side edges. Fold inside of binding under 12” and hold tape in place using clothespins. Working on outside of basket, topstitch binding a scant 18” above bottom of binding, catching inside of binding in seam  (Diagram 7).

Hanging Storage Bags

bagHang these wide-mouth bags anywhere you need a place to quickly stash bits and pieces or often-used items.


  • 13 yard multicolor print (outer bag)
  • 13 yard complementary tone-on-tone (bag lining)
  • 6″-diameter embroidery hoop with screw assembly
  • S-hook
  • Curtain rod (optional)
  • Drapery ring (optional)

Finished bag: 612×8×3″

Measurements include 12” seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.

Cut the following pieces:
From multicolor print, cut:
2—1012” square

From tone-on-tone, cut:
2—1012” squares

1. Sew together multicolor print 1012” squares along three edges to make outer bag (Diagram 1). Press seams to one side or open.
d12. At one sewn corner of outer bag, match seams to create a flattened triangle (Diagram 2). Measuring 112” from point of triangle, draw a 3″-long line across triangle. Sew on drawn line. Trim excess fabric, leaving 12” seam allowance. Repeat at remaining sewn corner to shape bottom of outer bag. Turn outer bag right side out.
d23. Using tone-on-tone 1012” squares instead of multicolor print squares, repeat Step 1, leaving a 3″ opening in center of one edge, to make bag lining.

4. Repeat Step 2 to shape bottom of bag lining. Leave lining wrong side out.

5. Insert outer bag into bag lining and align raw edges (Diagram 3). Sew together raw edges. Turn right side out through opening in lining. Slipstitch opening closed. Insert lining into outer bag and press top edge flat. Topstitch close to top edge to complete bag.


6. Separate inner and outer embroidery hoops. Place inner hoop around top of bag 1–2″ from bag upper edge. Fold bag upper edge over inner hoop so lining shows (bag will be snug around hoop). Place outer hoop around inner hoop with screw assembly centered in back; tighten.

7. Hook screw assembly over an S-hook. If you’re using a large S-hook, hang hook directly from curtain rod. If you’re using a small S-hook, hook it into the hole of a drapery ring, then hang the drapery ring from a curtain rod.

DIY Jewelry Dish

diy-dishDesigner: Sara Perez

Imprint a lace motif into oven-bake clay to make a dish for holding jewelry, coins, or other small items.


  • Polymer modeling clay
  • Pasta Maker
  • Lace
  • Glass or ceramic bowl
  • Colored chalk

noodle-maker1. Insert a soft, flattened ball of polymer modeling clay and a piece of lace into a clay-dedicated pasta maker at the same time. Turn crank to feed lace and clay through the machine and to imprint lace into clay. Peel off lace. If desired, stamp or etch letters into clay.

ceramic-bowl2. Lay clay over small upturned glass or ceramic bowl, textured-side down. Smooth clay over bowl; trim edges. Following clay manufacturer’s instructions, place clay-covered bowl in oven for increments of five minutes; check periodically. Remove when clay is not wet to the touch or is easily imprinted; let cool slightly.

chalk3. Carefully pry clay off bowl. Note: If clay becomes too cool, it may stay affixed to bowl, so it is important to remove clay before it cools completely. Brush colored chalk onto desired areas of the dish.