Fabric Storage Baskets

fresh-pickedDesigner: Anna Graham

Inspired by berry baskets from the farmer’s market, these cheery fabric renditions are great for stashing notions in a crafts room, corralling change, or holding jewelry.


  • 2—12″ pieces of two coordinating fabrics (small basket)
  • 2—18″ squares of two coordinating fabrics (large basket)
  • 14 yard of double-sided fusible heavyweight interface (such as 72F Peltex II)
  • 1 yard of ½” double-fold binding tape
  • Clothespins
  • Basket pattern (get the pattern here)

Finished baskets: 414×414×112” (small); 5×5×312” for (large)

Measurements include 14” seam allowances unless otherwise stated. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.

Assemble the Baskets:

Cut out basket patterns. For a small basket, fold fabric in half. For large basket, fold fabric in quarters. Cut the following pieces:



From print No.1, cut: 

  • 1 of pattern A (exterior)

From print No. 2, cut:

  • 1 of pattern A (interior)

From double-sided fusible heavyweight interfacing, cut:

  • 1—334” square (bottom)
  • 4—334×114” rectangles (sides)



From print No. 3, cut:

  • 1 of pattern B (exterior)

From print No. 4, cut:

  • 1 of pattern B (interior)

From double-sided fusible heavyweight interfacing, cut:

  • 1—434” square (bottom)
  • 4—434×314” rectangles (sides) 

1. Place matching exterior and lining pieces with right sides together, sew pieces together at each corner as shown by lines on diagram (Diagram 1).


2. Place corresponding interfacing square on center of exterior side of shape; press (Diagram 2). Clip into corners slightly and turn right side out.


3. Slip one corresponding interfacing rectangle into top, bottom, and each side of shape (Diagram 3). Adjust shapes so there is enough space around interfacing edges to allow for topstitching. Press shape on both sides.

4. Topstitch around center and side interfacing pieces (Diagram 4). Place shape with exterior side down.

5. Open double-fold binding tape. Fold one side of box up. Turn end of bias tape under 12” and place end of tape in center of box side, aligning tape and box side edges; pin (Diagram 5).



6. Working around box and leaving a 12” gap of unpinned bias tape at each corner, pin bias tape in same manner to all sides. Overlap ends of tape by at least 1″. Sew 12” below top edge of each side panel and corner (Diagram 6).
fresh-picked-d67. Flip binding tape up and over the top of the basket to conceal raw side edges. Fold inside of binding under 12” and hold tape in place using clothespins. Working on outside of basket, topstitch binding a scant 18” above bottom of binding, catching inside of binding in seam  (Diagram 7).

Hanging Storage Bags

bagHang these wide-mouth bags anywhere you need a place to quickly stash bits and pieces or often-used items.


  • 13 yard multicolor print (outer bag)
  • 13 yard complementary tone-on-tone (bag lining)
  • 6″-diameter embroidery hoop with screw assembly
  • S-hook
  • Curtain rod (optional)
  • Drapery ring (optional)

Finished bag: 612×8×3″

Measurements include 12” seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.

Cut the following pieces:
From multicolor print, cut:
2—1012” square

From tone-on-tone, cut:
2—1012” squares

1. Sew together multicolor print 1012” squares along three edges to make outer bag (Diagram 1). Press seams to one side or open.
d12. At one sewn corner of outer bag, match seams to create a flattened triangle (Diagram 2). Measuring 112” from point of triangle, draw a 3″-long line across triangle. Sew on drawn line. Trim excess fabric, leaving 12” seam allowance. Repeat at remaining sewn corner to shape bottom of outer bag. Turn outer bag right side out.
d23. Using tone-on-tone 1012” squares instead of multicolor print squares, repeat Step 1, leaving a 3″ opening in center of one edge, to make bag lining.

4. Repeat Step 2 to shape bottom of bag lining. Leave lining wrong side out.

5. Insert outer bag into bag lining and align raw edges (Diagram 3). Sew together raw edges. Turn right side out through opening in lining. Slipstitch opening closed. Insert lining into outer bag and press top edge flat. Topstitch close to top edge to complete bag.


6. Separate inner and outer embroidery hoops. Place inner hoop around top of bag 1–2″ from bag upper edge. Fold bag upper edge over inner hoop so lining shows (bag will be snug around hoop). Place outer hoop around inner hoop with screw assembly centered in back; tighten.

7. Hook screw assembly over an S-hook. If you’re using a large S-hook, hang hook directly from curtain rod. If you’re using a small S-hook, hook it into the hole of a drapery ring, then hang the drapery ring from a curtain rod.

DIY Jewelry Dish

diy-dishDesigner: Sara Perez

Imprint a lace motif into oven-bake clay to make a dish for holding jewelry, coins, or other small items.


  • Polymer modeling clay
  • Pasta Maker
  • Lace
  • Glass or ceramic bowl
  • Colored chalk

noodle-maker1. Insert a soft, flattened ball of polymer modeling clay and a piece of lace into a clay-dedicated pasta maker at the same time. Turn crank to feed lace and clay through the machine and to imprint lace into clay. Peel off lace. If desired, stamp or etch letters into clay.

ceramic-bowl2. Lay clay over small upturned glass or ceramic bowl, textured-side down. Smooth clay over bowl; trim edges. Following clay manufacturer’s instructions, place clay-covered bowl in oven for increments of five minutes; check periodically. Remove when clay is not wet to the touch or is easily imprinted; let cool slightly.

chalk3. Carefully pry clay off bowl. Note: If clay becomes too cool, it may stay affixed to bowl, so it is important to remove clay before it cools completely. Brush colored chalk onto desired areas of the dish.

Crocheted Owl Basket


Designer: Deja Jetmir 

Whooooo’s ready to get organized while looking stylish?


  • Two 5-ounce skeins worsted weight yarn: gray (such as Red Heart Super Saver in Grey Heather)
  • Size J crochet hook
  • Blunt-end yarn needle

Gauge: 6 rows and 8 hdc = 3″

Finished size: 8″ tall

See our guide to yarn here.



hdc-inc, dc-inc, sc-inc = work two of the designated st in one stitch.
hdc-dec = (Yo, insert hook in next st, yo and draw up a lp) twice, yo and draw through all 5 lps on hook.
picot = ch 5, sl st in top of first st.

Crochet the Basket:

Note: The basket is worked in a spiral, so joining rounds is not necessary. Mark beginning of each round.

Rnd 1: With 2 strands of yarn held together, ch 3 (2 chs counts as hdc), hdc 7 times in beg ch (8 hdc).

Rnd 2: Hdc-inc in each st (16 hdc).

Rnd 3: *Hdc-inc, hdc in next st; rep from * 7 more times (24 hdc).

Rnd 4: *Hdc-inc, hdc in next 2 sts; rep from * 7 more times (32 hdc).

Rnd 5: *Hdc-inc, hdc in next 3 sts; rep from * 7 more times (40 hdc).

Rnd 6: *Hdc-inc, hdc in next 4 sts; rep from * 7 more times (48 hdc).

Rnd 7: * Hdc-inc, hdc in next 5 sts; rep from * 7 more times (56 hdc).

Rnd 8:
* Hdc-inc, hdc in next 6 sts; rep from * 7 more times (64 hdc).

Rnds 9–17: Hdc in each st around (64 hdc).

Rnd 18: *Hdc-dec, hdc in next 6 sts; rep from * 7 more times (56 hdc).

Rnd 19: *Hdc-dec, hdc in next 5 sts; rep from * 7 more times (48 hdc).

Rnd 20: *Hdc-inc, hdc in next 5 sts; rep from * 7 more times (56 hdc).

Rnd 21–26: Hdc in each st around (56 hdc).

Sc in next st, sl st in next st to finish off. Fasten off, and weave in ends.

Make the Eyes:

Note: Each eye is worked in a spiral, so joining rounds is not necessary. Mark beginning of each round.


First Eye:

Rnd 1: With 2 strands of yarn held together, ch 2, sc 6 times in beg ch (6 sc).

Rnd 2: *Sc 2 times in each st; rep from * 5 more times (12 sc).

Rnd 3: *Dc 2 times in each st; rep from * 11 more times (24 sc).

Rnd 4: *Dc 2 times in next st, dc; rep from * 5 more times, tr, dtr, picot; fasten off.


Second Eye:

Rnds 1–3: Rep First Eye instructions.

Rnd 4: Picot, dtr, tr, *dc, dc 2 times in next st; rep from * 5 more times, hdc, sc, sl st to finish off eye; fasten off and weave in ends.

Add Eyes to Basket:

1. Position the right eye on the basket at the point of the last st. Using two strands of yarn and a tapestry needle, tack down the center of the eye; using the center hole as a guide, bring the needle up through the center and then back down in the first round of stitches. Continue until center is secure.

2. Using two strands of yarn and the outside stitches of the eye, tack down the eye securely, leaving the picot stitches unsewn. Weave in all ends. Repeat with left eye.

Add the Beak:

1. Using two strands of yarn and long straight stitches, embroider a beak between the bottoms of the eyes.

Handled Storage Tote

knitting-toteDesigner: Sheila Sinclair Snyder

Need a place to stash your stuff? Whip up a handled bag by stitching together sweater-wrapped clothesline.


  • Approximately 100′ of 14“-wide clothesline
  • Old sweaters: various shades of gray, various bright colors
  • Sewing thread: gray


Finished size: 8″ tall (with handles) × 17″ wide

Assemble the Tote:

1. Cut old sweaters into 114“-wide strips, cutting each as long as possible. Wrap a dark gray strip clockwise around the beginning of the clothesline, overlapping the strip along the length.

2. Fold the covered clothesline over on itself 10” from the end. Referring to How-To Sew a Cord Coilbelow, and using gray sewing thread, sew between the clothesline rows along the 10″ length to begin the bag bottom. Continue adding gray sweater strips and coiling the clothesline to make an approximately 3×11″ oval coil for the bag bottom. Do not trim clothesline.

3. To begin the bag sides, lay the wrapped clothesline over the top of the outermost row of oval coil. Shift the base under the sewing machine foot so the oval is flipped up slightly on the left side of the foot. Continue sewing between the rows, adding sweater strip wraps, and coiling the clothesline on top of the base.

4. Where desired, add strips of light gray to make horizontal rows around bag sides. Add random, brightly colored short strips as desired.

5. When the bag sides reach approximately 7″ tall, add a handle to one wide side by leaving a 7″-long portion of the covered cording unstitched. Shape the handle as desired, leaving a gap between the coil and the handle. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the handle where it attaches to the coil for extra reinforcement.

6. Continue sewing the coil until you reach the opposite side. Repeat Step 4 to add a handle opposite the first handle.

7. Continue sewing one more complete round around bag sides, adding a second layer to each handle.

8. Trim cord to end along the top of a bag side near the base of a handle. Wrap a sweater strip onto the cord, extending the wraps past the end of the cord by 1″; trim strip if necessary. Finish sewing the covered cord to the coil, reinforcing at the end with backstitches.

How to Sew a Cord Coil:

1. For a round base, coil one end of the cord tightly around itself a few times until the coil is the size of a quarter.



2. While holding coil firmly, place the coil under your sewing machine’s zigzag foot with the cord extending off the right side toward you. Use a wide zigzag to stitch between the cording rows, catching the cording on both sides to hold it together.

3. Slowly rotate the coils counterclockwise as you zigzag-stitch in between the rows. For long continuous curves, you may wish to switch to an open toe sewing machine foot. Tilt coil as you stitch to build sides.