Coiled Planter Pot Container

Designer: Sheila Sinclair Snyder 

Cover up a boring pot with a coiled container that coordinates with your decor.


Materials:

  • Approximately 50′ of 316“-wide cotton cord
  • 18 yard of green print fabric
  • Sewing thread: clear
  • Clear-drying crafts glue

Finished size: 412” tall


1. Cut green print fabric into 1″-wide strips.

2. Referring to How-To Sew a Cord Coil below, and using white sewing thread, sew between the cord rounds to make a 4″-diameter coil for the pot cover base.

2. To begin pot cover sides, lay the clothesline over the top of the outermost row of pot cover base coil. Shift base under the sewing machine foot so the coil is flipped up vertically on the left side of foot. Continue sewing between the rounds until the planter sides are 3″ tall.

3. Wrap a green print strip clockwise around the clothesline, and continue sewing the coil for two rounds, adding more green strips as necessary.

4. Continue sewing uncovered cord for the coil for approximately 5 more rounds or until the pot cover sides are 412” tall. Trim cord end, leaving 3″ unsewn. Cover cut end with clear-drying crafts glue to prevent fraying; let dry. Sew remainder of cord to top of pot cover, backstitching at the end for extra reinforcement.


How to Sew a Cord Coil:

1. For a round base, coil one end of the cord tightly around itself a few times until the coil is the size of a quarter.

cord1

 

2. While holding coil firmly, place the coil under your sewing machine’s zigzag foot with the cord extending off the right side toward you. Use a wide zigzag to stitch between the cording rows, catching the cording on both sides to hold it together.
cord2

3. Slowly rotate the coils counterclockwise as you zigzag-stitch in between the rows. For long continuous curves, you may wish to switch to an open toe sewing machine foot. Tilt coil as you stitch to build sides.
cord3

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Oversized Bow Clutch

Designer: Molly Hanson

An oversize fabric bow lends a bit of fanciful flair to an all-purpose bag that’s just right for stashing your essentials.


Materials:

  • 3—18×22″ pieces (fat quarters)
    in cream print (bag), light blue (lining), navy (bow)
  • 10″-long zipper
  • Lightweight fusible web (such as Heat ‘n Bond Lite)
  • Double-stick sewing tape (such as Wash Away Wonder Tape)

Finished ba: 812×1512

Yardages and cutting instructions are based on 42″ of usable fabric width. Measurements include 14” seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.


Cut Fabric:
From cream print, cut:

  • 2—9×16″ rectangles (exterior)

From light blue, cut:

  • 2—9×16″ rectangles (lining)

From navy, cut: 

  • 1—16×18″ rectangle (bow)
  • 1—4×5″ rectangle (bow loop)

From lightweight fusible web, cut:

  • 2—9×16″ rectangles

1. Following manufacturer’s instructions, press each fusible-web rectangle onto wrong side of each cream print 9×16″ rectangle; let cool. Peel off paper backings ad press fusible-web side of each exterior rectangle onto wrong side of each bag light blue 9×16″ lining rectangle to make a bag front and a bag back (Diagram 1); let cool.

2. With right sides together, fold navy 16×18″ rectangle in half to measure 8×18″. Sew along the 18″-long side to make a tube (Diagram 2). Turn tube right side out, center the seam on back, and press

3. With right sides together, fold navy blue 4×5″ rectangle in half to measure 212×4″. Sew along the 4″-long side to make a tube. Turn tube right side out, center the seam on the back, and press. With the seam on the outside, fold tube in half and match short raw edges. Sew the ends together to make a ring (Diagram 3). Turn ring right side out.

4. Carefully insert the tube into the ring. Adjust pieces so the seam for the tube is facing the front and the seam for the ring is facing back.

5. Fold bag front in half crosswise and then lengthwise; finger-press the intersecting fold to find the center; unfold with exterior side faceup. With the wrong side of the bow facedown, center the bow over the center mark and pin the bow ends to the bag sides. Sew bow ends to sides using a scant 14” seam allowance (Diagram 4).

 

6. Place bag front on a flat surface with bow side facing up. Cut a 16″-long piece of double-stick sewing tape. Following the package instructions, press double-stick sewing tape to a 16″-long edge of the bag front. Gently peel off tape’s paper backing to expose sticky side of tape. Note: Wash Away Wonder Tape is available in fabrics stores in the notions department.

 

7. Match right side of zipper to sticky side of tape, pressing with your finger to secure zipper. Tape will hold the zipper firmly in place without pins. If your machine has a zipper foot, attach it to your sewing machine. If you don’t have a zipper foot, you can still sew on a zipper, making the stitching line as near to zipper teeth as possible. Sew along edge of bag front near zipper teeth (Diagram 5). When you get to the zipper pull, do not swerve to go around it. Instead, stop with the needle down in the fabric, lift presser foot, and slide zipper pull up and out of the way. Lower presser foot and continue sewing.

8. Fold zipper face up (Diagram 6). Finger-press bag front away from zipper. Repeat steps 7 and 8 with the bag back, sewing down opposite side of zipper teeth in the same manner. Finger-press as before.

9. Topstich 18” from folds on each side of zipper (Diagram 7). Note: The sewing tape is temporary and will not gum up your needle.

10. Remove the zipper foot from the sewing machine and replace it with a regular sewing foot. With right sides inside and zipper almost all the way open, fold bag body in half, matching 9″-long edges; pin. Sew the sides and bottom (Diagram 8).


11. To shape bottom of bag, at one corner match bottom seam line to side seam line, creating a flattened triangle (Diagram 9). Measuring 2″ from point of triangle, draw a 2″-long line across triangle. Sew on drawn line. Trim excess fabric, leaving 12” seam allowance. Repeat with remaining bottom corner of bag.

 

12. Turn bag right side out through open zipper. Arrange bow pleats as desired.

Spring Scarf

Designer: Jennifer Keltner

Scarves have graduated from wintertime accessories to anytime must-haves.


Materials:

  • 1 yard red stripe fabric*
  • 34 yard woven cotton linen
  • Size 5 embroidery needle
  • Valdani perle cotton: size 8 (M43–variegated multicolor reds)

*Note: Because the stripe on our fabric ran parallel to the selvage, extra yardage was required to allow for only one seam. If not using a directional or stripe fabric, you could buy only 34 yard.

FINISHED SCARF: 6312×1212

Measurements include 14” seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.


From each fabric, cut:

  • 2—13×32″ rectangles, noting direction of stripes (along 32″ length)

 

1. With right sides together, sew 14” seam along one short end of red stripe rectangle to make one long strip that is 13×6312” Press seams open.

2. Repeat Step 1 for woven cotton linen rectangles.

3. Layer red stripe strip and woven cotton linen strip with right sides together. Sew 14” seam on each long edge. Leave short ends unstitched. Turn right side out and press. If you like, place pins along some of the red stripes to keep layers together while hand sewing.

4. Using a size 5 embroidery needle, thread approximately 18″ of perle cotton and tie a knot. Starting on the red stripe fabric side of scarf, about 12” from end, stitch with a long running stitch along a stripe. When you run out of thread, finish with a knot on the red strip side and begin again with another length of perle cotton.

5, Repeat Step 1 to sew along as many stripes as you want.

6. Pull out a few threads on each unfinished edge to create a frayed finish.

Macaroon Storage Pouch

Adapted from an original design by Keiko Clark

Here’s a recipe for macaroon look-alikes that doesn’t require you to be a skilled pastry chef.


Materials:

  • 6×12″ rectangle solid pastel No. 1 (zipper tab, pocket)
  • 2—6×12″ rectangles solid pastel No. 2 (outer case, lining)
  • Heavy-duty template plastic
  • Heavy paper
  • Needle and thread
  • 9″-long zipper: white
  • Heavy-duty thread
  • Download the pattern pieces here.

 

Finished size: 3″ diameter

Measurements include 14” seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.


Cut Fabrics:

Cut pieces in the following order. Download the pattern pieces here.

 

From solid pastel No. 1, cut: 

  • 2 of Pattern C
  • 112” square

From solid pastel No. 2, cut:

  • 4 of Pattern A

From each template plastic and heavy paper, cut:

  • 2 of Pattern B

Prepare Zipper Unit:

1. Using needle and thread, secure zipper tape ends 14” below teeth at zipper bottom with overlapping backstitches. Repeat stitching at opposite zipper end 14” from zipper stop.

2. To create the join between the case front and back, fold opposite edges of solid pastel No. 1 12” square under 38” to make a 34×112” folded unit. Open zipper slightly. Center folded unit on wrong side of zipper over joined zipper ends. Stitch folded edges of unit to zipper tape. Close zipper.

 

3. Turn zipper so zipper pull tab is on the outside. Snip 14” clips every 12” around the zipper tape on both sides.


Assemble Outer Case:

1. Sew gathering stitches close to outer edge of a solid pastel No. 2 A circle. Place circle right side down on a flat surface. Place a small handful of polyester fiberfill on wrong side of pastel circle. Layer plastic B circle on polyester fiberfill. Pull gathering thread around plastic circle (enclosing fiberfill) and secure thread ends to make a cover unit.

2. Position cover unit atop one side of zipper unit. Working from right side, whipstitch cover unit to zipper tape.

3. Using a solid pastel No. 2 A circle, repeat Step 1 to assemble a second cover unit. Position cover unit atop remaining side of zipper unit. Whipstitch cover unit to zipper tape as before to make outer case.


Assemble Lining:

1. Turn under straight edge of solid pastel No. 1 C piece 12” twice. Topstitch along first fold to make pocket piece. Repeat to make a second pocket piece.

2. Center pocket piece, right side up, atop right side of a solid pastel No. 2 A circle; baste edges.

3. Center a paper B circle on wrong side of solid pastel No. 2 A circle. Sew gathering stitches close to outer edge of A circle. Place circle right side down on a flat surface. Pull gathering thread around paper circle and secure thread ends to make lining with pocket.

4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 with remaining pocket piece, paper B circle, and solid pastel No. 2 A circle.


Finish Case:

Open outer case. Center one lining piece on inside of case. Whipstitch lining to zipper tape. Repeat with remaining lining piece on other inside of case to complete case.

 

 

Simple Sewing Apron

Designer: Joyce Cronkhite

The piecing is simple on this kitchen gadget inspired apron.


Materials:

  • 4—34-yard pieces of assorted prints in coral, big dot, small green dot, and cream novelty (apron, pocket, lining)
  • 1 yard green rickrack
  • 2—112-yard pieces of 78“-wide grosgrain ribbon: cream and green
  • Water-soluble marking pen

 

Finished Apron: 21×2812” (overall); 21×2212” (folded)

Quantities are for 44/45″-wide, 100% cotton fabrics. Measurements include 14” seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.


1. Cut pieces in the following order.

From coral print, cut:

  • 2—534×30″ strips

From big dot, cut:

  • 2—534×30″ strips

From small green dot, cut:

  • 1—634×14″ rectangle

From cream novelty print, cut:

  • 1—2112×30″ rectangle

From green rickrack, cut:

  • 1—22″-long piece
  • 1—7″-long piece

 

2. Sew together two coral print 534×30″ strips and two big dot 534×30″ strips to make apron front (Diagram 1). Press seams in one direction. Apron front should be 2112×30″ including seam allowances.

 

3. Topstitch along one side of each seam (Diagram 2).

 

4. Layer cream novelty print 2112×30″ rectangle and apron front with right sides together, orienting the prints in opposite directions so that the cream novelty print rectangle is right side up when the top is folded over the front. Sew together around all edges, leaving a 4″ opening along one edge for turning. Trim diagonally across corners.

 

5. Turn right side out through opening. Press flat and slip-stitch opening closed to make apron unit. The apron unit should be 21×2912“.

 

6. Topstitch along outer edge of apron unit and remaining side of each seam (Diagram 3).

7. Turn under bottom edge of apron unit 12“; press. Turn under again 12“; press. Sew through all layers close to first folded edge to hem apron unit.

 

8. Referring to photo, on top, pin 22″-long piece of green rickrack over hem stitching, folding ends over edges. Using contrasting thread, stitch through center of rickrack.

 

9. Aligning short edges, fold small green dot 634×14″ rectangle in half, right side inside, to make a 634×7″ rectangle. Sew together raw edges, leaving a 3″ opening along one edge for turning (Diagram 4).

apron-d4

10. Turn right side out through opening. Press flat and slip-stitch opening closed to make a pocket.

 

11. Referring to photo, on top, pin 7″-long piece of green rickrack 1″ from folded edge of pocket, folding ends over edges. Using contrasting thread, stitch to pocket through center of rickrack.

 

12. Position pocket on right side of apron unit 714” from bottom edge and 218” from right-hand edge; pin. Topstitch side and bottom edges of pocket to make apron body (Diagram 5).

13. Join ends of cream and green grosgrain ribbon pieces to make a tie strip. Press seam open.

 

14. Using a water-soluble marking pen, draw a line on right side of apron body 6″ from top edge. Align and center top edge of tie strip with marked line; pin. Topstitch tie to apron body along both edges of ribbon to complete apron (Diagram 6). To wear apron, tie ribbon ends around waist. Fold top of apron lining over ribbon tie strip as shown in photo.