Roll-Up Makeup Brush Pouch

Designer: Linda Lum Debono

It’s time to face your cosmetics clutter. This easy-to-sew pouch is perfect for traveling!


  • 9×22″ piece blue dot (pocket)
  • 9×22″ piece (fat eighth) teal dot (cover)
  • 18×22″ piece (fat quarter) green print (lining, tie, and binding)
  • 8×1212” batting
  • Water- or air-soluble marking pen


Finished brush roll: 8×1212

Fabrics are 44/45″-wide. Sew with 14” seam allowances and right sides together.

1. Cut the following pieces:


From blue dot, cut:

  • 1—712×1212” pocket rectangle

From teal dot, cut:

  • 1—8×1212” cover rectangle

From green print, cut: 

  • 1—8×1212” lining rectangle
  • 2—112×22″ strips for tie
  • 2—212×22″ binding strips


2. With wrong side inside, fold and press blue dot 712×1212” rectangle in half lengthwise to make a 334×1212” pocket rectangle.

3. Layer teal dot 8×1212” cover rectangle wrong side up, 8×1212” batting rectangle, green print 8×1212” lining rectangle right side up, and pocket rectangle (Diagram 1). Pin layers together.

4. Mark stitching lines using a water- or air-soluble marking pen. Quilt layered roll with straight-stitch lines beginning 114” from a short edge (Diagram 2). Referring to diagram, continue quilting straight lines at 1″- or 2″-wide intervals across surface of roll. Leave 114” unquilted along opposite short edge.

5. Join green print 112×22″ strips along one short edge; press seam open. With wrong side inside, fold and press green print 112×4312” strip in half lengthwise. Open strip and press long edges to center fold line. Topstitch 18” from folded edges to make tie. Knot each end of tie and trim excess fabric at an angle to prevent raveling.


6. Fold tie in half. Pin center of tie to lining side of roll, aligning tie with folded top edge of pocket, to complete roll (Diagram 3).

7. Join short ends of binding strips. Press seam open. Fold in half lengthwise to make 114” double-fold binding. Aligning raw edges, join binding to brush roll cover using machine, keeping tie ends free from stitching. Turn folded edge of binding to brush roll lining and top-stitch edge of binding.


Sewable Treat Bags

Designer: Monica Solorio-Snow

Be a super-sweet hostess with pint-size favor bags filled with take-home treats.


  • 18×22″ piece (fat quarter) each of light and dark novelty prints (bags, linings)
  • 4—12″-long pieces 38“-wide grosgrain ribbon: turquoise, red, black


Finished Bag: 4×4×2″

This project results in two sets of two contrasting bags each (for example, two light bags with dark bottoms and two dark bags with light bottoms). Sew with 1/4″ seam allowances and right sides together.

1. Cut the following pieces. See Cutting Diagram to get the most pieces from each fat quarter. To save time, layer two fat quarters and rotary-cut through both layers.


From each light and dark novelty print, refer to Cutting Diagram and cut:

  • 4—512×612” rectangles
  • 4—312×612” rectangles
  • 4—212×612” rectangles


2. For one light bag you will need two dark print 512×612” rectangles, two dark print 212×612” rectangles, and two light print 312×612” rectangles.


3. Referring to Diagram 1, join one light print 312×612” rectangle and one dark print 212×612” rectangle along one long edge to make bag piece.

4. Cut one 12″-long piece of ribbon into two 6″-long pieces. Referring to Diagram 2, pin ribbon ends to right side of bag piece, 2″ from side edges. (If you are using a printed ribbon, place right side of ribbon toward right side of bag piece.)

5. Referring to Diagram 3, layer a dark print 512×612” rectangle (lining) and bag piece, with right sides together. Sew together along one long edge to make a bag unit.

6. Repeat steps 3–5 to make a second bag unit.


7. With right sides together, layer bag units; pin. Join units around all edges, leaving a 3″ opening along lining edge for turning (Diagram 4). Press seams open.

8. To shape flat bottom for bag, at one corner match bottom seam line to side seam line, creating a flattened triangle (Diagram 5). Measuring 1″ from point of triangle, draw a 2″-long line across triangle. Sew on drawn line. Trim excess fabric, leaving 14” seam allowance. Repeat with remaining bottom corner of bag and both corners of lining.

9. Turn bag right side out through opening and finger-press seams. Slip-stitch lining opening closed. Insert lining into bag to complete a light bag. Press along top edge.


10. Repeat steps 1–8 to make two light bags and two dark bags, reversing fabric placement for dark bags.

Coiled Planter Pot Container

Designer: Sheila Sinclair Snyder 

Cover up a boring pot with a coiled container that coordinates with your decor.


  • Approximately 50′ of 316“-wide cotton cord
  • 18 yard of green print fabric
  • Sewing thread: clear
  • Clear-drying crafts glue

Finished size: 412” tall

1. Cut green print fabric into 1″-wide strips.

2. Referring to How-To Sew a Cord Coil below, and using white sewing thread, sew between the cord rounds to make a 4″-diameter coil for the pot cover base.

2. To begin pot cover sides, lay the clothesline over the top of the outermost row of pot cover base coil. Shift base under the sewing machine foot so the coil is flipped up vertically on the left side of foot. Continue sewing between the rounds until the planter sides are 3″ tall.

3. Wrap a green print strip clockwise around the clothesline, and continue sewing the coil for two rounds, adding more green strips as necessary.

4. Continue sewing uncovered cord for the coil for approximately 5 more rounds or until the pot cover sides are 412” tall. Trim cord end, leaving 3″ unsewn. Cover cut end with clear-drying crafts glue to prevent fraying; let dry. Sew remainder of cord to top of pot cover, backstitching at the end for extra reinforcement.

How to Sew a Cord Coil:

1. For a round base, coil one end of the cord tightly around itself a few times until the coil is the size of a quarter.



2. While holding coil firmly, place the coil under your sewing machine’s zigzag foot with the cord extending off the right side toward you. Use a wide zigzag to stitch between the cording rows, catching the cording on both sides to hold it together.

3. Slowly rotate the coils counterclockwise as you zigzag-stitch in between the rows. For long continuous curves, you may wish to switch to an open toe sewing machine foot. Tilt coil as you stitch to build sides.

Oversized Bow Clutch

Designer: Molly Hanson

An oversize fabric bow lends a bit of fanciful flair to an all-purpose bag that’s just right for stashing your essentials.


  • 3—18×22″ pieces (fat quarters)
    in cream print (bag), light blue (lining), navy (bow)
  • 10″-long zipper
  • Lightweight fusible web (such as Heat ‘n Bond Lite)
  • Double-stick sewing tape (such as Wash Away Wonder Tape)

Finished ba: 812×1512

Yardages and cutting instructions are based on 42″ of usable fabric width. Measurements include 14” seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.

Cut Fabric:
From cream print, cut:

  • 2—9×16″ rectangles (exterior)

From light blue, cut:

  • 2—9×16″ rectangles (lining)

From navy, cut: 

  • 1—16×18″ rectangle (bow)
  • 1—4×5″ rectangle (bow loop)

From lightweight fusible web, cut:

  • 2—9×16″ rectangles

1. Following manufacturer’s instructions, press each fusible-web rectangle onto wrong side of each cream print 9×16″ rectangle; let cool. Peel off paper backings ad press fusible-web side of each exterior rectangle onto wrong side of each bag light blue 9×16″ lining rectangle to make a bag front and a bag back (Diagram 1); let cool.

2. With right sides together, fold navy 16×18″ rectangle in half to measure 8×18″. Sew along the 18″-long side to make a tube (Diagram 2). Turn tube right side out, center the seam on back, and press

3. With right sides together, fold navy blue 4×5″ rectangle in half to measure 212×4″. Sew along the 4″-long side to make a tube. Turn tube right side out, center the seam on the back, and press. With the seam on the outside, fold tube in half and match short raw edges. Sew the ends together to make a ring (Diagram 3). Turn ring right side out.

4. Carefully insert the tube into the ring. Adjust pieces so the seam for the tube is facing the front and the seam for the ring is facing back.

5. Fold bag front in half crosswise and then lengthwise; finger-press the intersecting fold to find the center; unfold with exterior side faceup. With the wrong side of the bow facedown, center the bow over the center mark and pin the bow ends to the bag sides. Sew bow ends to sides using a scant 14” seam allowance (Diagram 4).


6. Place bag front on a flat surface with bow side facing up. Cut a 16″-long piece of double-stick sewing tape. Following the package instructions, press double-stick sewing tape to a 16″-long edge of the bag front. Gently peel off tape’s paper backing to expose sticky side of tape. Note: Wash Away Wonder Tape is available in fabrics stores in the notions department.


7. Match right side of zipper to sticky side of tape, pressing with your finger to secure zipper. Tape will hold the zipper firmly in place without pins. If your machine has a zipper foot, attach it to your sewing machine. If you don’t have a zipper foot, you can still sew on a zipper, making the stitching line as near to zipper teeth as possible. Sew along edge of bag front near zipper teeth (Diagram 5). When you get to the zipper pull, do not swerve to go around it. Instead, stop with the needle down in the fabric, lift presser foot, and slide zipper pull up and out of the way. Lower presser foot and continue sewing.

8. Fold zipper face up (Diagram 6). Finger-press bag front away from zipper. Repeat steps 7 and 8 with the bag back, sewing down opposite side of zipper teeth in the same manner. Finger-press as before.

9. Topstich 18” from folds on each side of zipper (Diagram 7). Note: The sewing tape is temporary and will not gum up your needle.

10. Remove the zipper foot from the sewing machine and replace it with a regular sewing foot. With right sides inside and zipper almost all the way open, fold bag body in half, matching 9″-long edges; pin. Sew the sides and bottom (Diagram 8).

11. To shape bottom of bag, at one corner match bottom seam line to side seam line, creating a flattened triangle (Diagram 9). Measuring 2″ from point of triangle, draw a 2″-long line across triangle. Sew on drawn line. Trim excess fabric, leaving 12” seam allowance. Repeat with remaining bottom corner of bag.


12. Turn bag right side out through open zipper. Arrange bow pleats as desired.

Spring Scarf

Designer: Jennifer Keltner

Scarves have graduated from wintertime accessories to anytime must-haves.


  • 1 yard red stripe fabric*
  • 34 yard woven cotton linen
  • Size 5 embroidery needle
  • Valdani perle cotton: size 8 (M43–variegated multicolor reds)

*Note: Because the stripe on our fabric ran parallel to the selvage, extra yardage was required to allow for only one seam. If not using a directional or stripe fabric, you could buy only 34 yard.


Measurements include 14” seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.

From each fabric, cut:

  • 2—13×32″ rectangles, noting direction of stripes (along 32″ length)


1. With right sides together, sew 14” seam along one short end of red stripe rectangle to make one long strip that is 13×6312” Press seams open.

2. Repeat Step 1 for woven cotton linen rectangles.

3. Layer red stripe strip and woven cotton linen strip with right sides together. Sew 14” seam on each long edge. Leave short ends unstitched. Turn right side out and press. If you like, place pins along some of the red stripes to keep layers together while hand sewing.

4. Using a size 5 embroidery needle, thread approximately 18″ of perle cotton and tie a knot. Starting on the red stripe fabric side of scarf, about 12” from end, stitch with a long running stitch along a stripe. When you run out of thread, finish with a knot on the red strip side and begin again with another length of perle cotton.

5, Repeat Step 1 to sew along as many stripes as you want.

6. Pull out a few threads on each unfinished edge to create a frayed finish.