Macaroon Storage Pouch

Adapted from an original design by Keiko Clark

Here’s a recipe for macaroon look-alikes that doesn’t require you to be a skilled pastry chef.


  • 6×12″ rectangle solid pastel No. 1 (zipper tab, pocket)
  • 2—6×12″ rectangles solid pastel No. 2 (outer case, lining)
  • Heavy-duty template plastic
  • Heavy paper
  • Needle and thread
  • 9″-long zipper: white
  • Heavy-duty thread
  • Download the pattern pieces here.


Finished size: 3″ diameter

Measurements include 14” seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.

Cut Fabrics:

Cut pieces in the following order. Download the pattern pieces here.


From solid pastel No. 1, cut: 

  • 2 of Pattern C
  • 112” square

From solid pastel No. 2, cut:

  • 4 of Pattern A

From each template plastic and heavy paper, cut:

  • 2 of Pattern B

Prepare Zipper Unit:

1. Using needle and thread, secure zipper tape ends 14” below teeth at zipper bottom with overlapping backstitches. Repeat stitching at opposite zipper end 14” from zipper stop.

2. To create the join between the case front and back, fold opposite edges of solid pastel No. 1 12” square under 38” to make a 34×112” folded unit. Open zipper slightly. Center folded unit on wrong side of zipper over joined zipper ends. Stitch folded edges of unit to zipper tape. Close zipper.


3. Turn zipper so zipper pull tab is on the outside. Snip 14” clips every 12” around the zipper tape on both sides.

Assemble Outer Case:

1. Sew gathering stitches close to outer edge of a solid pastel No. 2 A circle. Place circle right side down on a flat surface. Place a small handful of polyester fiberfill on wrong side of pastel circle. Layer plastic B circle on polyester fiberfill. Pull gathering thread around plastic circle (enclosing fiberfill) and secure thread ends to make a cover unit.

2. Position cover unit atop one side of zipper unit. Working from right side, whipstitch cover unit to zipper tape.

3. Using a solid pastel No. 2 A circle, repeat Step 1 to assemble a second cover unit. Position cover unit atop remaining side of zipper unit. Whipstitch cover unit to zipper tape as before to make outer case.

Assemble Lining:

1. Turn under straight edge of solid pastel No. 1 C piece 12” twice. Topstitch along first fold to make pocket piece. Repeat to make a second pocket piece.

2. Center pocket piece, right side up, atop right side of a solid pastel No. 2 A circle; baste edges.

3. Center a paper B circle on wrong side of solid pastel No. 2 A circle. Sew gathering stitches close to outer edge of A circle. Place circle right side down on a flat surface. Pull gathering thread around paper circle and secure thread ends to make lining with pocket.

4. Repeat Steps 2 and 3 with remaining pocket piece, paper B circle, and solid pastel No. 2 A circle.

Finish Case:

Open outer case. Center one lining piece on inside of case. Whipstitch lining to zipper tape. Repeat with remaining lining piece on other inside of case to complete case.



Simple Sewing Apron

Designer: Joyce Cronkhite

The piecing is simple on this kitchen gadget inspired apron.


  • 4—34-yard pieces of assorted prints in coral, big dot, small green dot, and cream novelty (apron, pocket, lining)
  • 1 yard green rickrack
  • 2—112-yard pieces of 78“-wide grosgrain ribbon: cream and green
  • Water-soluble marking pen


Finished Apron: 21×2812” (overall); 21×2212” (folded)

Quantities are for 44/45″-wide, 100% cotton fabrics. Measurements include 14” seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.

1. Cut pieces in the following order.

From coral print, cut:

  • 2—534×30″ strips

From big dot, cut:

  • 2—534×30″ strips

From small green dot, cut:

  • 1—634×14″ rectangle

From cream novelty print, cut:

  • 1—2112×30″ rectangle

From green rickrack, cut:

  • 1—22″-long piece
  • 1—7″-long piece


2. Sew together two coral print 534×30″ strips and two big dot 534×30″ strips to make apron front (Diagram 1). Press seams in one direction. Apron front should be 2112×30″ including seam allowances.


3. Topstitch along one side of each seam (Diagram 2).


4. Layer cream novelty print 2112×30″ rectangle and apron front with right sides together, orienting the prints in opposite directions so that the cream novelty print rectangle is right side up when the top is folded over the front. Sew together around all edges, leaving a 4″ opening along one edge for turning. Trim diagonally across corners.


5. Turn right side out through opening. Press flat and slip-stitch opening closed to make apron unit. The apron unit should be 21×2912“.


6. Topstitch along outer edge of apron unit and remaining side of each seam (Diagram 3).

7. Turn under bottom edge of apron unit 12“; press. Turn under again 12“; press. Sew through all layers close to first folded edge to hem apron unit.


8. Referring to photo, on top, pin 22″-long piece of green rickrack over hem stitching, folding ends over edges. Using contrasting thread, stitch through center of rickrack.


9. Aligning short edges, fold small green dot 634×14″ rectangle in half, right side inside, to make a 634×7″ rectangle. Sew together raw edges, leaving a 3″ opening along one edge for turning (Diagram 4).


10. Turn right side out through opening. Press flat and slip-stitch opening closed to make a pocket.


11. Referring to photo, on top, pin 7″-long piece of green rickrack 1″ from folded edge of pocket, folding ends over edges. Using contrasting thread, stitch to pocket through center of rickrack.


12. Position pocket on right side of apron unit 714” from bottom edge and 218” from right-hand edge; pin. Topstitch side and bottom edges of pocket to make apron body (Diagram 5).

13. Join ends of cream and green grosgrain ribbon pieces to make a tie strip. Press seam open.


14. Using a water-soluble marking pen, draw a line on right side of apron body 6″ from top edge. Align and center top edge of tie strip with marked line; pin. Topstitch tie to apron body along both edges of ribbon to complete apron (Diagram 6). To wear apron, tie ribbon ends around waist. Fold top of apron lining over ribbon tie strip as shown in photo.

Fabric Storage Baskets

fresh-pickedDesigner: Anna Graham

Inspired by berry baskets from the farmer’s market, these cheery fabric renditions are great for stashing notions in a crafts room, corralling change, or holding jewelry.


  • 2—12″ pieces of two coordinating fabrics (small basket)
  • 2—18″ squares of two coordinating fabrics (large basket)
  • 14 yard of double-sided fusible heavyweight interface (such as 72F Peltex II)
  • 1 yard of ½” double-fold binding tape
  • Clothespins
  • Basket pattern (get the pattern here)

Finished baskets: 414×414×112” (small); 5×5×312” for (large)

Measurements include 14” seam allowances unless otherwise stated. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.

Assemble the Baskets:

Cut out basket patterns. For a small basket, fold fabric in half. For large basket, fold fabric in quarters. Cut the following pieces:



From print No.1, cut: 

  • 1 of pattern A (exterior)

From print No. 2, cut:

  • 1 of pattern A (interior)

From double-sided fusible heavyweight interfacing, cut:

  • 1—334” square (bottom)
  • 4—334×114” rectangles (sides)



From print No. 3, cut:

  • 1 of pattern B (exterior)

From print No. 4, cut:

  • 1 of pattern B (interior)

From double-sided fusible heavyweight interfacing, cut:

  • 1—434” square (bottom)
  • 4—434×314” rectangles (sides) 

1. Place matching exterior and lining pieces with right sides together, sew pieces together at each corner as shown by lines on diagram (Diagram 1).


2. Place corresponding interfacing square on center of exterior side of shape; press (Diagram 2). Clip into corners slightly and turn right side out.


3. Slip one corresponding interfacing rectangle into top, bottom, and each side of shape (Diagram 3). Adjust shapes so there is enough space around interfacing edges to allow for topstitching. Press shape on both sides.

4. Topstitch around center and side interfacing pieces (Diagram 4). Place shape with exterior side down.

5. Open double-fold binding tape. Fold one side of box up. Turn end of bias tape under 12” and place end of tape in center of box side, aligning tape and box side edges; pin (Diagram 5).



6. Working around box and leaving a 12” gap of unpinned bias tape at each corner, pin bias tape in same manner to all sides. Overlap ends of tape by at least 1″. Sew 12” below top edge of each side panel and corner (Diagram 6).
fresh-picked-d67. Flip binding tape up and over the top of the basket to conceal raw side edges. Fold inside of binding under 12” and hold tape in place using clothespins. Working on outside of basket, topstitch binding a scant 18” above bottom of binding, catching inside of binding in seam  (Diagram 7).

Hanging Storage Bags

bagHang these wide-mouth bags anywhere you need a place to quickly stash bits and pieces or often-used items.


  • 13 yard multicolor print (outer bag)
  • 13 yard complementary tone-on-tone (bag lining)
  • 6″-diameter embroidery hoop with screw assembly
  • S-hook
  • Curtain rod (optional)
  • Drapery ring (optional)

Finished bag: 612×8×3″

Measurements include 12” seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.

Cut the following pieces:
From multicolor print, cut:
2—1012” square

From tone-on-tone, cut:
2—1012” squares

1. Sew together multicolor print 1012” squares along three edges to make outer bag (Diagram 1). Press seams to one side or open.
d12. At one sewn corner of outer bag, match seams to create a flattened triangle (Diagram 2). Measuring 112” from point of triangle, draw a 3″-long line across triangle. Sew on drawn line. Trim excess fabric, leaving 12” seam allowance. Repeat at remaining sewn corner to shape bottom of outer bag. Turn outer bag right side out.
d23. Using tone-on-tone 1012” squares instead of multicolor print squares, repeat Step 1, leaving a 3″ opening in center of one edge, to make bag lining.

4. Repeat Step 2 to shape bottom of bag lining. Leave lining wrong side out.

5. Insert outer bag into bag lining and align raw edges (Diagram 3). Sew together raw edges. Turn right side out through opening in lining. Slipstitch opening closed. Insert lining into outer bag and press top edge flat. Topstitch close to top edge to complete bag.


6. Separate inner and outer embroidery hoops. Place inner hoop around top of bag 1–2″ from bag upper edge. Fold bag upper edge over inner hoop so lining shows (bag will be snug around hoop). Place outer hoop around inner hoop with screw assembly centered in back; tighten.

7. Hook screw assembly over an S-hook. If you’re using a large S-hook, hang hook directly from curtain rod. If you’re using a small S-hook, hook it into the hole of a drapery ring, then hang the drapery ring from a curtain rod.

Bedside Storage Caddy

102676012Designer: Alison Gamm

Keep all your bedtime essentials close at hand with a caddy made from a fringed table runner.


  • Fabric table runner with fringe ends (Ours measures 1412×6914” with 2″ fringe on each end.)
  • Matching sewing thread
  • 12″ length of 1″-wide ribbon in coordinating color

Assemble the Caddy:

1. Fold one short edge of table runner up 9″, then fold the edge down to the outside 112“. Topstitch the sides together to make a large pocket.

2. Tuck ribbon under pocket flap 4” from left-hand side and pin in place. To make two pockets, topstitch along each edge of ribbon through all table runner layers, being careful to leave the fringe free of stitching. Extend the topstitching through the layers of the flap until you reach the top folded edge.

3. Sandwich the table runner between the mattress and box spring, leaving the pocket end hanging over the edge.