Felt Feather Pillow

Designer: Patty Sloniger

Spread your decorating wings with a pillow embellished with appliqué and embroidered wool and felt feather motifs across the front.


  • 114 yards of white fabric
  • 14 yard of tan fabric
  • Felt, felted wool, or wool:light aqua, green, gold, gray, dark green, rust, dark teal, cream
  • Embroidery floss: dark gray, cream, light gray
  • Sewing thread
  • 18″-square pillow insert
  • Feathers Pattern



Yardages and cutting instructions are based on 42″ of usable fabric width. Measurements include  12” seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.

Cut the following pieces:


From white fabric, cut:

  • 1—17″ square (pillow front)
  • 2—13×19″ rectangles (back)

From tan fabric, cut:

  • 2—2×17″ border strips
  • 2—2×19″ border strips

From light aqua felt, felted wool, or wool, cut:

  • 1 of pattern A

From green felt, felted wool, or wool, cut:

  • 1 of pattern A

From gold felt, felted wool, or wool, cut:

  • 1 of pattern A
  • 1 of pattern C

From gray felt, felted wool, or wool, cut:

  • 3 of pattern B
  • 3 of pattern D
  • 3 of pattern F

From dark green felt, felted wool, or wool, cut:

  • 1 of pattern C

From rust felt, felted wool, or wool, cut: 

  • 1 of pattern C
  • 1 of pattern E

From dark teal felt, felted wool, or wool, cut:

  • 1 of pattern E

From cream felt, felted wool, or wool, cut:

  • 1 of pattern E

1. Referring to the Appliqué Placement Diagram, arrange the A–F shapes on the right side of the pillow front, spacing the shapes 38” from the edges. For the C-D feather in the top right, trim the C shape parallel to the top edge of the pillow front. For the E-F feather on the bottom left, trim the F shape parallel to the bottom edge of the pillow front. When satisfied with the arrangement, pin the shapes to the pillow front.

2. With the pieces pinned in place, cut random notches in the edges of each A and B shape to resemble feather edges.

3. Use three strands of embroidery floss for all stitching. Using dark gray embroidery floss, stitch a line of short running stitches along the inside edge of each A and B shape (Embroidery Diagram). Using cream embroidery floss, backstitch striping details as desired on the gray B shapes. Using light gray embroidery floss, backstitch a 214” quill for each feather. Feathers that extend along the left-hand edge and the bottom of the pillow front do not have quills. The feather at the lower right corner of the pillow front has a short quill that extends into the seam allowance.


4. Referring to Pillow Front Assembly Diagram, sew a tan 2×17″ border strip to the top and bottom edges of the pillow front. Add a tan 2×19″ border strip to each side edge of the pillow front. Press all seams toward borders.

5. Turn under one long edge of each white 13×19″ rectangle 14“; press. Turn under same long edges 14” again and stitch in place to hem pillow back pieces.


6. Referring to Pillow Back Assembly Diagram, overlap hemmed edges of pillow back pieces by about 6″ to make a 19″ square. Edgestitch across overlaps to make pillow back.

7. Layer pillow top and back with right sides together. Stitch around all edges to make pillow cover. Turn to right side; press. Insert pillow form through opening in pillow back.


Spring Scarf

Designer: Jennifer Keltner

Scarves have graduated from wintertime accessories to anytime must-haves.


  • 1 yard red stripe fabric*
  • 34 yard woven cotton linen
  • Size 5 embroidery needle
  • Valdani perle cotton: size 8 (M43–variegated multicolor reds)

*Note: Because the stripe on our fabric ran parallel to the selvage, extra yardage was required to allow for only one seam. If not using a directional or stripe fabric, you could buy only 34 yard.


Measurements include 14” seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.

From each fabric, cut:

  • 2—13×32″ rectangles, noting direction of stripes (along 32″ length)


1. With right sides together, sew 14” seam along one short end of red stripe rectangle to make one long strip that is 13×6312” Press seams open.

2. Repeat Step 1 for woven cotton linen rectangles.

3. Layer red stripe strip and woven cotton linen strip with right sides together. Sew 14” seam on each long edge. Leave short ends unstitched. Turn right side out and press. If you like, place pins along some of the red stripes to keep layers together while hand sewing.

4. Using a size 5 embroidery needle, thread approximately 18″ of perle cotton and tie a knot. Starting on the red stripe fabric side of scarf, about 12” from end, stitch with a long running stitch along a stripe. When you run out of thread, finish with a knot on the red strip side and begin again with another length of perle cotton.

5, Repeat Step 1 to sew along as many stripes as you want.

6. Pull out a few threads on each unfinished edge to create a frayed finish.

Hanging Storage Bags

bagHang these wide-mouth bags anywhere you need a place to quickly stash bits and pieces or often-used items.


  • 13 yard multicolor print (outer bag)
  • 13 yard complementary tone-on-tone (bag lining)
  • 6″-diameter embroidery hoop with screw assembly
  • S-hook
  • Curtain rod (optional)
  • Drapery ring (optional)

Finished bag: 612×8×3″

Measurements include 12” seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.

Cut the following pieces:
From multicolor print, cut:
2—1012” square

From tone-on-tone, cut:
2—1012” squares

1. Sew together multicolor print 1012” squares along three edges to make outer bag (Diagram 1). Press seams to one side or open.
d12. At one sewn corner of outer bag, match seams to create a flattened triangle (Diagram 2). Measuring 112” from point of triangle, draw a 3″-long line across triangle. Sew on drawn line. Trim excess fabric, leaving 12” seam allowance. Repeat at remaining sewn corner to shape bottom of outer bag. Turn outer bag right side out.
d23. Using tone-on-tone 1012” squares instead of multicolor print squares, repeat Step 1, leaving a 3″ opening in center of one edge, to make bag lining.

4. Repeat Step 2 to shape bottom of bag lining. Leave lining wrong side out.

5. Insert outer bag into bag lining and align raw edges (Diagram 3). Sew together raw edges. Turn right side out through opening in lining. Slipstitch opening closed. Insert lining into outer bag and press top edge flat. Topstitch close to top edge to complete bag.


6. Separate inner and outer embroidery hoops. Place inner hoop around top of bag 1–2″ from bag upper edge. Fold bag upper edge over inner hoop so lining shows (bag will be snug around hoop). Place outer hoop around inner hoop with screw assembly centered in back; tighten.

7. Hook screw assembly over an S-hook. If you’re using a large S-hook, hang hook directly from curtain rod. If you’re using a small S-hook, hook it into the hole of a drapery ring, then hang the drapery ring from a curtain rod.

Beaded Snowflake Wall Art

snowflake-patternsDesigner: Jann Williams

You’ll get a flurry of compliments when you make these beaded snowflake beauties.

Materials for Midnight Snowflakes:

  • 12″ square of dark gray wool
  • 6″-diameter vintage metal embroidery hoop
  • Transfer paper
  • Stylus or dried-up ballpoint pen
  • Caron Wildflowers embroidery thread: white
  • Embroidery floss: white
  • Embroidery needle
  • Bugle beads: silver
  • Beading needle
  • Snowflake pattern


1. Trace the pattern onto white paper. Lay a piece of transfer paper onto dark gray wool. Lay pattern on top of transfer paper in desired location. Using a stylus or dried-up ballpoint pen, carefully and firmly trace over design lines so design is transferred onto wool.

2. Insert embroidery in hoop, positioning design off center as shown in photo. Pull fabric taut. Stitch short in-and-out stitches, also known as stab stitches, on pattern lines.

3. Referring to photo, stitch silver bugle beads to each snowflake arm with a beading needle and one strand of white embroidery floss.

4. When all stitching is complete, turn the hoop over. Stitch a running stitch approximately 1-1⁄2″ outside the hoop in the fabric that extends past the hoop edges. Pull the thread to gather the fabric; knot the thread. Trim away the extra fabric approximately 1″ outside the gathered line.

5. If desired, cut a felt circle that is slightly smaller than the back of the embroidery hoop. Whipstitch the felt circle to the gathered fabric on the back side of the hoop.

Materials for Up-Close Flurry:

  • 10″ square of light gray suiting fabric
  • 4″-diameter vintage metal embroidery hoop
  • Transfer paper
  • Stylus or dried-up ballpoint pen
  • #8 perle cotton: white
  • Embroidery needle
  • Seed beads: silver and light blue
  • Beading needle
  • Snowflake pattern


1. Referring to Step 1 of Midnight Snowflakes, transfer design onto light gray suiting fabric.

2. Insert embroidery in hoop, centering design in opening. Stitch fly stitches using white perle cotton for each V shape shown on pattern.

3. Using a beading needle and one strand of white embroidery floss, stitch three silver seed beads to each snowflake arm end. Stitch a blue seed bead between every other fly stitch.

4. Referring to steps 4–5 of Midnight Snowflakes, finish back of embroidery.



Framed Holiday Garland


Designer: Katie Leporte

Express your best wishes for the season on a colorful garland made with felted balls and embroidered pennants.


  • Wool roving: white, cream, mint green, pale pink, red
  • 4″ square of 2″-thick foam rubber
  • 36-gauge felting needle
  • 8×11″-sheet of felt: mint, white, teal
  • #5 perle cotton: black and white
  • Embroidery needle
  • Masking tape
  • 20×28-inch empty picture frame
  • Baker’s twine: red-and-white
  • Hot-glue gun and glue sticks
  • Flat tacks
  • Pennant and triangle patterns

1. Follow the instructions from How to Make a Felted Ball to make a total of 45 to 50 1″-diameter felted balls from assorted colors of wool roving.

2. Trace the pennant pattern, under Materials, onto white paper; cut out. Trace the pattern on mint green, light blue, and white felt; cut out. Draw a cursive letter J on the mint green felt piece, a cursive letter O onto the white felt piece, and a cursive letter Y onto the light blue felt piece.

3. Backstitch the letters using white perle cotton for the J and the Y and black perle cotton
for the O.

4. Trace the triangle pattern, under Materials, onto white paper; cut out. Trace the pattern five times onto teal felt. Draw each of the cursive letters M, E, R, R, and Y onto a triangle. Backstitch the letters using white perle cotton.

5. Determine placement for embroidered felt letters on the garland by taping one end of the baker’s twine to the top left inside corner of the picture frame. Swag the twine back and forth inside the frame as desired, taping the twine to the frame to secure. Using a small piece of masking tape, mark the twine where you wish to hang the letters. Remove the twine from the frame.

6. Thread one end of the twine with the embroidery needle, and string felted balls until you reach the taped area for letters; remove tape. Fold top edge of felt letter over the twine and hot-glue the overlap on the back side. Alternate letters with felt balls if desired. Continue adding more felt balls and the second set of letters where desired. Finish with more felted balls.

7. Use flat tacks to reattach ends of garland to inside of frame.