Oversized Bow Clutch

Designer: Molly Hanson

An oversize fabric bow lends a bit of fanciful flair to an all-purpose bag that’s just right for stashing your essentials.


Materials:

  • 3—18×22″ pieces (fat quarters)
    in cream print (bag), light blue (lining), navy (bow)
  • 10″-long zipper
  • Lightweight fusible web (such as Heat ‘n Bond Lite)
  • Double-stick sewing tape (such as Wash Away Wonder Tape)

Finished ba: 812×1512

Yardages and cutting instructions are based on 42″ of usable fabric width. Measurements include 14” seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.


Cut Fabric:
From cream print, cut:

  • 2—9×16″ rectangles (exterior)

From light blue, cut:

  • 2—9×16″ rectangles (lining)

From navy, cut: 

  • 1—16×18″ rectangle (bow)
  • 1—4×5″ rectangle (bow loop)

From lightweight fusible web, cut:

  • 2—9×16″ rectangles

1. Following manufacturer’s instructions, press each fusible-web rectangle onto wrong side of each cream print 9×16″ rectangle; let cool. Peel off paper backings ad press fusible-web side of each exterior rectangle onto wrong side of each bag light blue 9×16″ lining rectangle to make a bag front and a bag back (Diagram 1); let cool.

2. With right sides together, fold navy 16×18″ rectangle in half to measure 8×18″. Sew along the 18″-long side to make a tube (Diagram 2). Turn tube right side out, center the seam on back, and press

3. With right sides together, fold navy blue 4×5″ rectangle in half to measure 212×4″. Sew along the 4″-long side to make a tube. Turn tube right side out, center the seam on the back, and press. With the seam on the outside, fold tube in half and match short raw edges. Sew the ends together to make a ring (Diagram 3). Turn ring right side out.

4. Carefully insert the tube into the ring. Adjust pieces so the seam for the tube is facing the front and the seam for the ring is facing back.

5. Fold bag front in half crosswise and then lengthwise; finger-press the intersecting fold to find the center; unfold with exterior side faceup. With the wrong side of the bow facedown, center the bow over the center mark and pin the bow ends to the bag sides. Sew bow ends to sides using a scant 14” seam allowance (Diagram 4).

 

6. Place bag front on a flat surface with bow side facing up. Cut a 16″-long piece of double-stick sewing tape. Following the package instructions, press double-stick sewing tape to a 16″-long edge of the bag front. Gently peel off tape’s paper backing to expose sticky side of tape. Note: Wash Away Wonder Tape is available in fabrics stores in the notions department.

 

7. Match right side of zipper to sticky side of tape, pressing with your finger to secure zipper. Tape will hold the zipper firmly in place without pins. If your machine has a zipper foot, attach it to your sewing machine. If you don’t have a zipper foot, you can still sew on a zipper, making the stitching line as near to zipper teeth as possible. Sew along edge of bag front near zipper teeth (Diagram 5). When you get to the zipper pull, do not swerve to go around it. Instead, stop with the needle down in the fabric, lift presser foot, and slide zipper pull up and out of the way. Lower presser foot and continue sewing.

8. Fold zipper face up (Diagram 6). Finger-press bag front away from zipper. Repeat steps 7 and 8 with the bag back, sewing down opposite side of zipper teeth in the same manner. Finger-press as before.

9. Topstich 18” from folds on each side of zipper (Diagram 7). Note: The sewing tape is temporary and will not gum up your needle.

10. Remove the zipper foot from the sewing machine and replace it with a regular sewing foot. With right sides inside and zipper almost all the way open, fold bag body in half, matching 9″-long edges; pin. Sew the sides and bottom (Diagram 8).


11. To shape bottom of bag, at one corner match bottom seam line to side seam line, creating a flattened triangle (Diagram 9). Measuring 2″ from point of triangle, draw a 2″-long line across triangle. Sew on drawn line. Trim excess fabric, leaving 12” seam allowance. Repeat with remaining bottom corner of bag.

 

12. Turn bag right side out through open zipper. Arrange bow pleats as desired.

Spring Scarf

Designer: Jennifer Keltner

Scarves have graduated from wintertime accessories to anytime must-haves.


Materials:

  • 1 yard red stripe fabric*
  • 34 yard woven cotton linen
  • Size 5 embroidery needle
  • Valdani perle cotton: size 8 (M43–variegated multicolor reds)

*Note: Because the stripe on our fabric ran parallel to the selvage, extra yardage was required to allow for only one seam. If not using a directional or stripe fabric, you could buy only 34 yard.

FINISHED SCARF: 6312×1212

Measurements include 14” seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.


From each fabric, cut:

  • 2—13×32″ rectangles, noting direction of stripes (along 32″ length)

 

1. With right sides together, sew 14” seam along one short end of red stripe rectangle to make one long strip that is 13×6312” Press seams open.

2. Repeat Step 1 for woven cotton linen rectangles.

3. Layer red stripe strip and woven cotton linen strip with right sides together. Sew 14” seam on each long edge. Leave short ends unstitched. Turn right side out and press. If you like, place pins along some of the red stripes to keep layers together while hand sewing.

4. Using a size 5 embroidery needle, thread approximately 18″ of perle cotton and tie a knot. Starting on the red stripe fabric side of scarf, about 12” from end, stitch with a long running stitch along a stripe. When you run out of thread, finish with a knot on the red strip side and begin again with another length of perle cotton.

5, Repeat Step 1 to sew along as many stripes as you want.

6. Pull out a few threads on each unfinished edge to create a frayed finish.

Floral-Painted Shoes

Designer: Sachiko Aldous

Rescue a pair of outdated shoes from the back of your closet by giving them a makeover with paint.


Materials:

  • Pair of leather shoes
  • Paper plate
  • Artist paintbrushes: filbert, liner, narrow flat
  • Angelus Acrylic Leather Paint: South Beach, White, Shell Pink, Grinch Green, Yellow, Light Green, Chili Red, Georgia Peach, Collector Edition Play Off 8 Grey, Green, Collector Edition Melo 2
  • Toothpick

Note:  Refer to the photo, above, as a guide for placement of each flower and leaf. The measurements given are approximations and may need to be adjusted to fit your shoe and design. Place a small amount of paint on the paper plate to use as a palette while painting. Always clean your brush before changing colors.


PAINT THE SHOES:

1. Mix South Beach and White with a 1:5 ratio on a paper plate. Paint the exterior of each shoe with the mixture; allow to dry.


PAINT THE PINK ROSES:

1. Using a filbert paintbrush loaded with Shell Pink, paint an approximately 1″-diameter pink rose on the center top of the toe of each shoe (photo above, left); let dry.

2. Using a liner brush loaded with White, paint swirls that mirror the flower curves (photo above, middle left).

3. Dilute Grinch Green with a small amount of water; load mixture onto a filbert paintbrush and paint a round spot in the center of each flower (photo above, middle right); let dry.

4. Using a detail brush loaded with Yellow, paint tiny dots on each green center (photo above, right).


PAINT THE LEAVES:
1. Determine desired placement of leaves around the pink rose. Using a filbert paintbrush loaded with Grinch Green, paint a 34“-long leaf shape for each leaf (photo above, left); let dry.

2. Using a filbert paintbrush loaded with Light Green, paint half of each leaf. Load liner brush with Light Green and outline each leaf (photo above, middle).

3. Using a liner brush loaded with Light Green, paint diagonal vein lines on the Grinch Green half of each leaf (photo above, right).


PAINT THE RED FLOWERS:
1. Using a narrow flat brush loaded with Chili Red, paint six 38“-long strokes that meet in the center to make a flower that resembles an asterisk (photo above, left). Paint three of these flowers around each pink rose and between the leaves; let dry.

2. Load the narrow flat brush with Georgia Peach and paint over Chili Red flower strokes for each flower (photo above, middle left); let dry.

3. Using a liner brush loaded with Chili Red, paint six short strokes on top of Georgia Peach flower strokes to resemble an asterisk (photo above, middle right); let dry.

4. Using a liner brush loaded with Play Off 8 Grey, paint a dot in the center of each flower (photo above, right).


PAINT THE STEMS:
1. Determine desired placement of stems, planning each stem so it curves away from each flower cluster. Using a liner brush loaded with Green, paint a 34“-long curved line for each stem (photo above, left).

2. Use liner brush loaded with Green to paint short lines for leaves on each side of each stem (photo above, right). Paint a leaf on the stem tip.


PAINT THE DAISIES:
1. Determine desired placement of daisies. Using a liner brush loaded with White, paint six 12“-long strokes that meet in the center for each daisy (photo above, left); let dry.

2. Using a toothpick dipped in Chili Red, add a small dot to each flower center (photo above, right).


PAINT THE HYACINTHS:
1. Determine placement of hyacinths, filling in the gaps between leaves and branches as desired. Using a liner brush loaded with Collector Edition Melo 2, paint a cone-shape cluster of about 12 tiny irregular dots for the flower head (photo above, left).

2. Using a liner brush loaded with Light Green, paint a stem and two curved leaves (photo above, right).


PAINT THE LILLIES OF THE VALLEY:
1. Determine placement of the lillies of the valley, filling any gaps as desired. Using a liner brush loaded with Light Green, paint a stem and two curved leaves for each flower (photo above, left); let dry.

2. Using a toothpick loaded with White, paint tiny dots along the top half of each stem (photo above, right).


FINISH THE DESIGN:

If desired, fill any empty areas or extend the design around the sides or back of each shoe by repeating flowers. You may need to adjust the size of your brushstrokes to make smaller versions of the flowers to fit in desired areas.

Simple Sewing Apron

Designer: Joyce Cronkhite

The piecing is simple on this kitchen gadget inspired apron.


Materials:

  • 4—34-yard pieces of assorted prints in coral, big dot, small green dot, and cream novelty (apron, pocket, lining)
  • 1 yard green rickrack
  • 2—112-yard pieces of 78“-wide grosgrain ribbon: cream and green
  • Water-soluble marking pen

 

Finished Apron: 21×2812” (overall); 21×2212” (folded)

Quantities are for 44/45″-wide, 100% cotton fabrics. Measurements include 14” seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.


1. Cut pieces in the following order.

From coral print, cut:

  • 2—534×30″ strips

From big dot, cut:

  • 2—534×30″ strips

From small green dot, cut:

  • 1—634×14″ rectangle

From cream novelty print, cut:

  • 1—2112×30″ rectangle

From green rickrack, cut:

  • 1—22″-long piece
  • 1—7″-long piece

 

2. Sew together two coral print 534×30″ strips and two big dot 534×30″ strips to make apron front (Diagram 1). Press seams in one direction. Apron front should be 2112×30″ including seam allowances.

 

3. Topstitch along one side of each seam (Diagram 2).

 

4. Layer cream novelty print 2112×30″ rectangle and apron front with right sides together, orienting the prints in opposite directions so that the cream novelty print rectangle is right side up when the top is folded over the front. Sew together around all edges, leaving a 4″ opening along one edge for turning. Trim diagonally across corners.

 

5. Turn right side out through opening. Press flat and slip-stitch opening closed to make apron unit. The apron unit should be 21×2912“.

 

6. Topstitch along outer edge of apron unit and remaining side of each seam (Diagram 3).

7. Turn under bottom edge of apron unit 12“; press. Turn under again 12“; press. Sew through all layers close to first folded edge to hem apron unit.

 

8. Referring to photo, on top, pin 22″-long piece of green rickrack over hem stitching, folding ends over edges. Using contrasting thread, stitch through center of rickrack.

 

9. Aligning short edges, fold small green dot 634×14″ rectangle in half, right side inside, to make a 634×7″ rectangle. Sew together raw edges, leaving a 3″ opening along one edge for turning (Diagram 4).

apron-d4

10. Turn right side out through opening. Press flat and slip-stitch opening closed to make a pocket.

 

11. Referring to photo, on top, pin 7″-long piece of green rickrack 1″ from folded edge of pocket, folding ends over edges. Using contrasting thread, stitch to pocket through center of rickrack.

 

12. Position pocket on right side of apron unit 714” from bottom edge and 218” from right-hand edge; pin. Topstitch side and bottom edges of pocket to make apron body (Diagram 5).

13. Join ends of cream and green grosgrain ribbon pieces to make a tie strip. Press seam open.

 

14. Using a water-soluble marking pen, draw a line on right side of apron body 6″ from top edge. Align and center top edge of tie strip with marked line; pin. Topstitch tie to apron body along both edges of ribbon to complete apron (Diagram 6). To wear apron, tie ribbon ends around waist. Fold top of apron lining over ribbon tie strip as shown in photo.


Wood Triangle Necklace

Designer: Jodi Harris

Tiny triangles cut from wood veneer make a cheery banner-style necklace when strung together with jump rings and chain.


Materials:

  • Iron-on wood veneer tape
  • Fabric scrap for backing
  • Acrylic paint: light blue, medium blue, dark blue, white
  • Paintbrush
  • Spray sealer
  • 11 gold jump rings
  • Jewelry pliers
  • Gold chain
  • Gold lobster clasp
  • Download the triangle pattern here.

1. Cut a 10″ length of veneer tape. Following manufacturer’s instructions, use an iron to press fabric onto rough side of tape. Trace triangle pattern onto white paper. Trace eight triangles onto wood side of veneer; cut out with sharp scissors.

2. Paint one triangle light blue, one medium blue, one dark blue, and one white; let dry. Spray all triangles with sealer; let dry.

3. Drill a 132” hole into two corners of each triangle. Connect triangles with jump rings through holes in desired order. Add chain to jump rings on outside triangles and adjust chain to desired length. Add jump rings to each chain end and add a lobster clasp to one end.