Fabric Storage Baskets

fresh-pickedDesigner: Anna Graham

Inspired by berry baskets from the farmer’s market, these cheery fabric renditions are great for stashing notions in a crafts room, corralling change, or holding jewelry.


Materials:

  • 2—12″ pieces of two coordinating fabrics (small basket)
  • 2—18″ squares of two coordinating fabrics (large basket)
  • 14 yard of double-sided fusible heavyweight interface (such as 72F Peltex II)
  • 1 yard of ½” double-fold binding tape
  • Clothespins
  • Basket pattern (get the pattern here)

Finished baskets: 414×414×112” (small); 5×5×312” for (large)

Measurements include 14” seam allowances unless otherwise stated. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.


Assemble the Baskets:

Cut out basket patterns. For a small basket, fold fabric in half. For large basket, fold fabric in quarters. Cut the following pieces:

 

FOR ONE SMALL BASKET

From print No.1, cut: 

  • 1 of pattern A (exterior)

From print No. 2, cut:

  • 1 of pattern A (interior)

From double-sided fusible heavyweight interfacing, cut:

  • 1—334” square (bottom)
  • 4—334×114” rectangles (sides)

 

FOR ONE LARGE BASKET

From print No. 3, cut:

  • 1 of pattern B (exterior)

From print No. 4, cut:

  • 1 of pattern B (interior)

From double-sided fusible heavyweight interfacing, cut:

  • 1—434” square (bottom)
  • 4—434×314” rectangles (sides) 

1. Place matching exterior and lining pieces with right sides together, sew pieces together at each corner as shown by lines on diagram (Diagram 1).

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2. Place corresponding interfacing square on center of exterior side of shape; press (Diagram 2). Clip into corners slightly and turn right side out.

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3. Slip one corresponding interfacing rectangle into top, bottom, and each side of shape (Diagram 3). Adjust shapes so there is enough space around interfacing edges to allow for topstitching. Press shape on both sides.
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4. Topstitch around center and side interfacing pieces (Diagram 4). Place shape with exterior side down.

5. Open double-fold binding tape. Fold one side of box up. Turn end of bias tape under 12” and place end of tape in center of box side, aligning tape and box side edges; pin (Diagram 5).

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6. Working around box and leaving a 12” gap of unpinned bias tape at each corner, pin bias tape in same manner to all sides. Overlap ends of tape by at least 1″. Sew 12” below top edge of each side panel and corner (Diagram 6).
fresh-picked-d67. Flip binding tape up and over the top of the basket to conceal raw side edges. Fold inside of binding under 12” and hold tape in place using clothespins. Working on outside of basket, topstitch binding a scant 18” above bottom of binding, catching inside of binding in seam  (Diagram 7).
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Resin Wineglass Rings

wine-ringsDesigner: Katie Leporte

We can’t decide which is more fun—making these resin wineglass identifiers or choosing your favorite to loop onto your glass!


Materials:

  • Epoxy resin
  • Hardener
  • Two plastic measuring cups
  • Stir Sticks
  • Small silicone molds (such as Mod Podge Mod Molds: Gems)
  • Colorants: blue opaque pigment and amber transparent dye (such as Castin’ Craft Opaque Pigments and Transfer Dyes) (optional)
  • Stir stick (optional)
  • Gold glitter
  • Gold wire earring hoops
  • Drill and 116” drill bit
  • Scrap block of wood

Note: Always work with resin in a well-ventilated area.


1. Follow the Tips for Using Epoxy Resin instructions to prepare the resin mixture.

2. Pour resin mixture into desired silicone molds. If color is desired, add a drop of pigment or dye into resin and swirl with a stir stick. If desired, stir glitter into wet resin. Allow to harden for up to 72 hours to ensure a strong bond.

3. Release the hardened resin shapes from the silicone mold by gently pushing the pieces from the back of the mold.

4. Place resin shape on a scrap block of wood, and drill a 116” hole approximately 14” from the top of each shape. Insert a wire earring hoop through the hole, and secure the hook and loop ends together.

Hanging Storage Bags

bagHang these wide-mouth bags anywhere you need a place to quickly stash bits and pieces or often-used items.


Materials:

  • 13 yard multicolor print (outer bag)
  • 13 yard complementary tone-on-tone (bag lining)
  • 6″-diameter embroidery hoop with screw assembly
  • S-hook
  • Curtain rod (optional)
  • Drapery ring (optional)

Finished bag: 612×8×3″

Measurements include 12” seam allowances. Sew with right sides together unless otherwise stated.

Cut the following pieces:
From multicolor print, cut:
2—1012” square

From tone-on-tone, cut:
2—1012” squares


1. Sew together multicolor print 1012” squares along three edges to make outer bag (Diagram 1). Press seams to one side or open.
d12. At one sewn corner of outer bag, match seams to create a flattened triangle (Diagram 2). Measuring 112” from point of triangle, draw a 3″-long line across triangle. Sew on drawn line. Trim excess fabric, leaving 12” seam allowance. Repeat at remaining sewn corner to shape bottom of outer bag. Turn outer bag right side out.
d23. Using tone-on-tone 1012” squares instead of multicolor print squares, repeat Step 1, leaving a 3″ opening in center of one edge, to make bag lining.

4. Repeat Step 2 to shape bottom of bag lining. Leave lining wrong side out.

5. Insert outer bag into bag lining and align raw edges (Diagram 3). Sew together raw edges. Turn right side out through opening in lining. Slipstitch opening closed. Insert lining into outer bag and press top edge flat. Topstitch close to top edge to complete bag.

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6. Separate inner and outer embroidery hoops. Place inner hoop around top of bag 1–2″ from bag upper edge. Fold bag upper edge over inner hoop so lining shows (bag will be snug around hoop). Place outer hoop around inner hoop with screw assembly centered in back; tighten.

7. Hook screw assembly over an S-hook. If you’re using a large S-hook, hang hook directly from curtain rod. If you’re using a small S-hook, hook it into the hole of a drapery ring, then hang the drapery ring from a curtain rod.

DIY Jewelry Dish

diy-dishDesigner: Sara Perez

Imprint a lace motif into oven-bake clay to make a dish for holding jewelry, coins, or other small items.


Materials:

  • Polymer modeling clay
  • Pasta Maker
  • Lace
  • Glass or ceramic bowl
  • Colored chalk

noodle-maker1. Insert a soft, flattened ball of polymer modeling clay and a piece of lace into a clay-dedicated pasta maker at the same time. Turn crank to feed lace and clay through the machine and to imprint lace into clay. Peel off lace. If desired, stamp or etch letters into clay.

ceramic-bowl2. Lay clay over small upturned glass or ceramic bowl, textured-side down. Smooth clay over bowl; trim edges. Following clay manufacturer’s instructions, place clay-covered bowl in oven for increments of five minutes; check periodically. Remove when clay is not wet to the touch or is easily imprinted; let cool slightly.

chalk3. Carefully pry clay off bowl. Note: If clay becomes too cool, it may stay affixed to bowl, so it is important to remove clay before it cools completely. Brush colored chalk onto desired areas of the dish.

Embroidered Waste Basket

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Designer: Jaydee Decker

Perforated metal waste cans are available in a variety of styles, and this faux-caned version works great for cross-stitching because of the vertical and horizontal hole alignment.


Materials:

  • Perforated metal waste can (must have vertically and horizontally aligned holes; our can is 20 holes high)
  • Spray paint: gold
  • Yarn needle
  • Super-bulky yarn: white

Assemble the Waste Basket:

1. In a well-ventilated area, spray-paint metal waste can; let dry.

2. Find the vertical center on side of can. Following the chart, below, cross-stitch design from the center out using yarn needle and white yarn. Leave a long tail on inside of can for first and last stitches, weave tails under previous stitches; trim ends. End yarn between motifs so yarn is not visible in open areas of can.

basket-pattern

 

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